Our position is 18:26.564N N 64:45.103W

The wind was still strong when we left Anegada so we had a rather rough and rolly passage downwind to Trellis Bay. Once again we passed by the Dog islands – Great Dog, Seal Dogs, West Dog and George Dog. I still wanted to anchor off George Dog, just because it is such an incongruous name for an island (and probably also for a dog) but conditions were untenable again, but we were joined by a small group of dolphins, which made up for it. They were smaller and browner than the ones we are used to seeing off the European coasts, but played off the front off the boat just the same.

 I had hopes Trellis Bay would be interesting, as the pilot made much of it and its full moon parties, but as it wasn’t full moon we didn’t see any of that. What we found was a very crowded anchorage, just next door to Tortola’s airport, and a lot of rain. It rained intermittently most of the evening after we arrived. We went ashore and visited the main attraction, Aragorn’s studio, where a lot of crafty activity takes place and people come to learn from the master.  You can watch people working and the product is beautiful, but very pricy, and not worth getting so wet for. It was too wet to venture out to the acclaimed restaurant on an island in the middle of the bay as well so we ate aboard and went to bed. The morning was brighter so, after a session ashore in the internet cafe catching up on some work for me and the same on the boat for Ted, we set off to sail to Norman Island.

In contrast to the previous two days conditions were light and the distance was short so we were there and picking up a buoy in time for a trip ashore and a Painkiller at the beach bar and then a dinghy ride round the point to investigate whether promised caves were worth coming back to snorkel in. The caves were a bit disappointing as they didn’t go very far in – more like recesses than caves - but Ted enjoyed the sight of someone taking nude photographs of his girl friend on a pebbly beach.

The next morning we decided to sail the 5 miles across the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Village Cay marina in Road Town, Tortola and enjoy access to water, electricity and shops for a short time. Most people we know had said they didn’t really like Road Town but we decided to give it a go anyway. The sight of 2 huge cruise ships as we approached didn’t fill us with confidence but we proceeded anyway. A radio call to the marina elicited the fact that they had a berth but that we should wait outside for 15mins and they would call us in. 30mins later we got fed up with waiting and contacted them again. A different voice said we could come straight in and then misled us as to whether we should be coming in on the right or left side of the pontoon. Eventually we were all sorted out and in the right place, but just across the water from a bar with a live band playing extremely loudly and this continued for the entire afternoon. Neither did the promised wifi work effectively – according to the marina office the cruise ships were using it all, although I would have thought they’d have had their own – so the high spot was the well stocked supermarket just down the road.

By the next morning we were happy to leave and sail down the south coast of Tortola, through the Thatch Island Cut and across to Jost van Dyke. We chose to go first to an anchorage between Jost van Dyke and Little Jost van Dyke. The two islands are joined by a shallow reef and we enjoyed seeing the pelicans and brown boobies diving for fish in the shallower waters – probably in the largest numbers we have seen together this season.  We got the last (and nearest the reef) mooring alongside a large catamaran. It was only later, looking back out from shore, that you could see how small Moorglade looked alongside. We went ashore to try and find something the guide called the bubbly pool, where the sea is forced in through rocks creating a sort of Jacuzzi experience. It was a bit late in the day and the sun wasn’t really shining in the bay and it works best at high tide, which it wasn’t, but you could get the general idea. Then it was back to the beach bar for drinks and to the boat for food.

The next day we needed to move to Great Harbour on Jost van Dyke, so we could clear out of the BVIs and head for the US version.  We were greeted briefly in the approach by a very slow moving dolphin (we were going quite slowly as the wind was a bit light), which didn't hang around for long. The harbour was lovely and this time there was a choice of mooring. In fact we changed our initial choice as another boat left one further inshore. Again there were many pelicans and boobies fishing along the shore. We contemplated hiking into the hills overlooking the harbour and perhaps walking along the ridge, but it just seemed much too much like hard work so we just walked up and down the beach and decided against lunching ashore, intending to return later. However fatigue took over and once again we ate on board in the evening.

The next morning saw us fairly bright and early shopping for fresh bread (baked on the premises at Pamela’s Bakery and the best we have had for a long time) and at the police station (home of customs and immigration but no visible policemen) to clear out. Then it was off to see if we would be allowed to set foot on American soil.

Passing the Dog Islands in bad weather                                                                             A bit better in crowded Trellis Bay

                                                       Iron Fire baskets used for the full moon parties

looking across Trellis bay to the airport. "Last Resort" on the right

The Bight dinghy dock, Norman Island                                                                    Our dinghy painter dangles in the clear water off the dock.

The caves in the evening sunlight

Approach to Road Town Tortola                                                                                                Village Cay marina, Road Town

Leaving Francis Drake Channel                                                                      Thatch Island Cut  Jost Van Dyke in the background

The reef between Little Jost and Jost viewed from our mooring                      The anchorage from the reef. Tortola in the background

The Bubble Pool

The anchorage in Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke                                         The Police Station/ Customs Office Great Harbour

Main Street, Great Harbour