Jekyll Island to Brunswick - the final days...

Moorglade's Voyage
Ted Wilson
Mon 30 Apr 2012 12:14
Our position is 31:09.060N 81:29.983W
 

We waited for the tidal rise at mid morning, during which time the sun shade was re-erected as it promised to be another stonking hot day, before going to the marina for a pump out and to sort out a hire car for our trip back to the airport on Monday.  After going under the bridge the river became the narrow passage of Jekyll Creek giving a navigation challenge. A reminder of the risks of running aground was provided by a TowBoat US boat travelling fast in the opposite direction. Once leaving the creek we entered St Simon’s Sound and turned away from the ICW to go under the cable stayed cantilever bridge, at 185ft the highest yet, and visible from the previous marina, before entering the East River which was lined with shrimp boats and commercial docks.

Kay radioed the Brunswick landing marina and we were invited to have an enjoyable docking experience. This proved to be the case and we received a very warm and informative welcome from Sherrie, the marina manager. She told us about the farmer’s market, the best restaurant in town and more importantly that nothing would be open on Sunday except Subway! This led to a hasty revision of plans and after lunch on board we headed for the farmer’s market buying devilled crab, fresh shrimps, fruit, vegetables and cane syrup which Ted needed for his famed flambéed bananas. Once the food was safely stowed we returned to town to find the streets deserted and little of obvious interest. Apparently the town is very depressed as a result of the economic situation. As it really was hot, hot, hot we decided to return to the boat and go out later to the recommended restaurant after a cleanup and yet more blogging.

The restaurant was an absolute gem, housed in an unpretentious wooden building called the Indigo Coastal Shanty and already nearly full of locals when we arrived at 7pm. After an effusive welcome from the proprietress, we all chose from a smallish menu of local dishes, jerked mahi mahi for John, chicken mole for Ted, fish tostadas for Kay and Charleston sauté for Kath, while waiting for the main course we shared a starter of fried green tomatoes which Travis had recommended. As there was a slight hiccup in Kay’s order such that she had a short wait, she was given a complimentary starter of curried cauliflower soup which again we all tasted – delicious. To follow we shared flambéed bananas with vanilla ice cream and mango fool, all just wonderful food, Sherrie had indeed spoken truly.

On Sunday morning while an early morning cuppa was being taken in the cockpit a local pulled up his crab trap on the other side of the dock from Moorglade. Inside was a good haul of what we learned were stone crabs and blue claw crabs, both had very large claws for the size of the crab. It was also explained that the local rule was that you only took one large claw from the crab and then threw it back in, where it would regrow the missing claw. The claw meat was a delicacy.

After breakfast a morning walk was thought necessary although the previous day’s experience did not give very high expectations, we were to be pleasantly surprised. The first find was the courthouse building with war memorials in the garden, World wars 1 and 2 figured, also Korea, Vietnam and most recently, a plaque for those fallen in the war on terror. A green gecko was spotted on the courthouse notice board; the photographers immediately went into action. The next two blocks were of ill kept houses and gardens with rubbish  left lying around, we realised we had strayed into the area Sherrie had described as no go. Heading back to the central area we were attracted by the sound of gospel singing and found it to be coming from a Baptist church. While loitering to listen we were engaged in conversation by a smartly dressed lady who seemed to be a church elder, she spent some time talking to us about the history of the town with particular emphasis on the churches. We continued through the streets noting more churches, civic buildings, a drive through bank and a rather fine school campus before heading to Subway for our lunchtime sandwiches, yet another new experience for John and Kath.

After lunch we took advantage of Sherrie’s offer to lend Ted her car to take us to the airport to pick up the hire car, a sure sign that our time on Moorglade was almost at an end. Our last supper was in the cockpit, enjoying Earlleen’s crab cakes and Skipper Bill’s giant shrimps, a final treat.

 

             

Pump out at Jekyll Harbour Marina                                                                One of the 6 types of cormorant - not sure which!

          

TowBoat US (a sort of marine RAC) in a hurry                                              Sidney Lumier bridge

           

Commercial activity on the East River

        

Brunswick Landing Marina                                                                 the first evidence of dinghy sailing in the USA we have come across

           

                                                                                                                  Earlleen

     

The theatre and the deserted streets                                                    In the 19th century there was a storm surge of 16 foot

    

Indigo Coastal Shanty  outside                                                        and inside

   

Ted ate all his but Kay took some back to the boat for the next day

       

The friendly proprietress                                                                      The excitement of the crossword was too much for Ted

    

Early morning crab fishing

         

The Court House                                                                                     A sign of the times

                                 

green gecko                                                                                          under floor ventilation

                 

the Baptist church with the gospel singing and friendly elder                Matching house and pick up

              

Glynn Academy                                                                                          Drive through bank - not sure what happens if you need more than just cash

          

Some typical Americana - Greyhound bus                                                      and fire hydrant

                                          

Another Baptist church                                                                                    A corner of Brunswick that could be England 

       

Ted and John investigate a roadside barbecue                                         but end up in Subway

    

Buying lunch                                                                                    and Kath and John can't quite believe what they've done

   Last supper - crab, shrimps and couscous