Our position is 27:47.10N 17:54.07W

 

Thursday 11 November 2010

 

We left Santa Cruz de la Palma at first light on Tuesday for the 53Nm sail to El

Hierro. After the rain and wind of the previous day it was good to see a clear sky

and good visibility – both La Gomera and Tenerife were clearly sighted before

sunrise and once round an obstructing headland, so was El Hierro.  The wind was

light but was from behind and soon increased to be strong enough to sail, with the

moths being shaken out of the cruising chute for maximum speed. The passage was

uneventful and afforded opportunities for foot care and a start to be made on

fitting the safety netting. Towards the end the wind died away completely, so we

motored into the well sheltered harbour with about an hour of daylight remaining,

and were assisted to tie up to the very high bollards on the wall by Thomas and

Gabrielle from Gatorali, who were the only other yacht in the harbour and were

occupying the only available space by a ladder. Once tied up we spent quite a long

time adjusting the warps, installing a fender plank (I knew we were carrying about

for something) and contemplating a route up the wall. Having decided to utilise our

own steps, and after an abortive attempt to rig a cradle between bollards from which

to suspend it, we moved forward in order to have a central bollard from which we

could hang them, and this proved most successful. We were both able to get on and

off at all states of the tide.

Puerto de la Estaca is a small, well developed harbour (plenty of euro funding spent

here) but with very little activity or facility. Just after a visit to the office

with our papers we witnessed a workman powering his drill by sticking the bare wires

on his extension directly into a wall socket. We had arranged to meet up with Pat

and Tom on Remedios before they headed back to Florida. They were coming from Santa

Cruz on Tenerife so on Wednesday morning we climbed the harbour wall to see if they

were anywhere near. Sure enough we could see a boat in the distance coming towards

us and in what seemed like next to no time we were helping them to tie up to the

wall behind us. When they were settled they went to sleep off the effects of the

overnight passage, while we were hailed from the quayside by Bob and Liz, who

claimed to be two thirds of the British population on the island. As well as a lot

of useful information about the island, they gave us a lift the 5km up to Valverde,

the island’s capital, where we had a look round and took some pictures. While

waiting outside the car hire office for it to open a local indicated that it would

be open shortly. When no one materialised he conferred with a friend and the next

minute I’m being handed a mobile phone and told to speak with an anonymous woman.

She did speak English but the conversation got off to a somewhat surreal start as

she seemed to think I had run out of money, but more in hope than expectation, we

requested a hire car at the harbour for the next day, and were assured it would be

there at 9am. Then it was off to the supermarket to supplement the supplies we had

brought for the evening meal as Gabrielle and Thomas were to be joining us all. We

caught a bus back down to the harbour – not without its trials as, although we had

established the route we needed, there was some uncertainty about which of the many

buses at the bus station we wanted, or indeed if there was a driver and when exactly

it would go – but all went well and we arrived back with enough time to cook. Thomas

and Gabrielle were bringing a fish course, as Thomas had caught 2 tuna while sailing

to El Hierro, and had more fish than he knew what to do with. A most convivial

evening followed, with much chat and wine. Fortunately everyone got back on board

their own boats safely, in spite of the distance to climb down.

Amazingly the car did turn up a 9 and, together with Pat & Tom we set off for a trip

round the island. First stop was an amazing “sculpture” constructed from old washing

machines and other household appliances, plastered over, but already showing signs

of wear, even though it was only completed last year. Then on to Valverde to visit

the tourist office and let Pat and Tom have a look at the town. The tourist office

directed us to the offices of the organisation responsible for the plan to make El

Hierro self sufficient for energy, and here we were well received by an extremely

helpful lady, who in spite of not having much English herself, quickly put together

2 sets of an information document and let us all watch a video on her PC, which

explained about the Hydro Electric scheme. With Pat at the wheel (Americans

understand about driving on the wrong side of the road) we visited another Manrique

designed viewpoint with integral restaurant, had lunch with an incredible quantity

of meat and not much else in a small village bar, looked at some trees that generate

water, (although by that time the clouds had descended on us, so it didn’t seem that

amazing) and headed down south to see La Restinga, another harbour improved with

European funding. We thought we saw Gatorali on her way to the Cape Verde islands

sailing by the bottom of the island so gave them a wave. On the way back we found

the upper reservoir of the hydro electric scheme, still under construction, but

being groomed meticulously in preparation for its gigantic PVC pond liner. It was

now getting towards the end of the day. It’s hard to see the whole island in a short

period as the roads do not really join up because of the mountainous terrain. There

was just time for a bread stop at the supermarket and a quick visit to the lower

reservoir construction for the hydro electric scheme. This is next door to Puerto de

la Estaca and we can hear the pile drivers, but the reservoir is quite a long way

behind the upper one in terms of completion.  The day ended with a fish supper in

the harbour cafe. This was also a voyage of discovery due to communication

difficulties with the waitress, but the fish was excellent, even if we never

identified an English name for it and could not find out what it would cost

beforehand.

Unfortunately difficulty establishing an internet connection will delay the sending

of this blog and tomorrow we set off back to Tenerife and Pat & Tom depart for

Florida. Let’s hope we all have favourable winds!

 

KLW

 

                                           

 

Evidence that the big coloured one does come out of its bag and the skipper uses the foredeck for jobs while the crew have other uses for the wide open spaces!

 

                          

 

Finally tied up against the wall at Puerto de la Estaca, El Hierro with fender board and steps for gaining dry land installed. We had concerns about the overhang on the wall, but as it was neaps it didn’t seem to cause any problem.

 

    

The very underutilised ferry terminal building at the harbour. Do we care that this is where our contributions go?!

 

               

 

The cathedral in Valverde                                                                                            Remedios joins Moorglade and Gatorali (She isn’t really flying a tanker from her mast!)     

 

  Dinner on board – (from left) Kay, Pat, Tom, Gabrielle and Thomas

 

                               

 

Installation built from rubbish                                                                                                                    The offices where we learned about the energy self sufficiency plans

 

                                     

 

The Manrique restaurant built into the cliff side at the viewpoint                                              Inspecting the water making tree – Pat & Tom weren’t sure what they should be doing with the trough

 

                                       

 

The upper reservoir for the energy scheme being “groomed”.                                                   Kay showing agility on the steps – even after wild living with Pat & Tom!

There was even a man with a broom, sweeping it!