La Gomera

Moorglade's Voyage
Ted Wilson
Fri 5 Nov 2010 22:56
Our position is 28:40.71N 17:46.02W
 
Friday 5 November 2010
 
We had a most enjoyable time at San Sebastian de La Gomera. Tuesday morning brought a telephone call from Steve, securely tied up in Puerto Colon, where he had been taken by the Spanish lifeboat. We were very pleased to hear they were all safe and didn't seem to be any the worse for their experiences. We had felt bad that we weren't able to offer more help in their hour of need. We hope Quest's engine will soon be fixed, without too much expense.
Ted was  then able to go to formally check in at the marina office. As Monday was an official holiday there was quiet a back log of people trying to check in so he was gone for what seemed like most of the morning. I was on the verge of sending out a search party when he returned and Anne, the friendly, English speaking German on the next boat, was able to show us the information she had about the island. Later we explored the main part of the town - this didn't take that long - and identified the ferretria that could provide more gas, and the bus station and market, as well as taking advantage of the new wifi aerial to catch up with some work.
On Wednesday we spurned the bus in favour of a hire car, with a special sailors discount for a tour round the Northern part of the island and a trip to Valle de Rey on the West coast. Ted was very impressed by the engineering of the roads, which twisted and turned through some really spectacular but inhospitable, rocky landscapes. There were some amazing views and also some which would have been amazing if we hadn't been in the clouds. There were lots of viewing places to stop and apart from one, which had several buses in it, there weren't many other people around. The forest in the Garojonay National Park was incredibly dense and a bit spooky. When we finally located the Visitor Centre we were able to acquire much knowledge about volcanoes as well as seeing a display of burial customs and typical Gomeran home life. There was a lot of emphasis on the importance of maintaining the ecological balance and the symbiotic relationship between man and the environment. In the evening we took advantage of having the car to go up to the Parador on the top of the cliffs above the marina for a typical Canarian meal - very tasty (and also very filling)
As we then decided that we needed to leave for our next destination very early in the morning and we had to return the car on Thursday morning, our departure was delayed for a further day. This enabled Ted to catch up on some boat jobs while I did some much needed washing in our newly purchased bowl (which can also double as a baby bath).
 
And so to today, Friday, when we were indeed up in the darkness to set off for La Palma at first light. Amazingly we had wind from the South East and tidal help for the first part of the journey along the North coast of La Gomera. We made a slight detour from the optimum course to view Los Organos, which can only be seen from the sea. These are some basalt rocks which have been left when all the surrounding rocks have been eroded and the resemble organ pipes. The guide books make much of them but we found them a bit of a let down. The rest of the trip was mainly spent motoring into a NWly until about 9 Nm from Santa Cruz de La Palma when the wind freed sufficiently to allow a 6-7 knot close reach up to the harbour entrance. The pilot book update advised us that we were not allowed to enter the harbour until given permission by the Harbour Control, but they ignored our radio calls so we went in anyway. The pilot also warned about swell in the marina, and there is no doubt that it is not the most restful place we have been, in spite of using all the warps and the rubber snubbers. It remains to be seen how well we sleep. The marina is anything but full and everyone has a full space to themselves, enabling warps to be led to both finger pontoons. The Fred Olsen ferries have just taken over the harbour. One of them almost seems to be in the marina with us!
 
Tomorrow we will explore La Palma by car.
 
KLW
 
 
                           
 
Up in the mountains                                                             Laurisilver forest. The species only survive        Valle Gran Rey's spectacular road
                                                                                         in the Canaries
 
 
 
 
              
Puerto Vueltas                                                                    The harbour at San Sebastian taken from the Parador
                                                                                         Moorglade is on the left two boats away from the lifeboat.
 
 
 
 
 
               
 
Early morning sun on the East coast                                       Los Organos