Spanish Virgins - a case of confused identity (Part 1)

Moorglade's Voyage
Ted Wilson
Wed 1 Feb 2012 18:25

Our position is 18:18.27N 65:17.875W

We had a fast passage from St Croix to Culebra, broad reaching with one reef. The Spanish Virgin Islands are part of Puerto Rico and since they fell into US hands had been used for military purposes, but in a bid to encourage tourism after the military pulled out they were branded “Virgin Islands” as they are geographically close to St Thomas than is St Croix. In fact, compared to the other Virgins they are not much visited, but they have beautiful beaches and some interesting features.

We had to go first to Culebra as Dewey, the only town on the island, is a port of entry to Puerto Rico. You’d think that being American as are the US Virgins where we’d come from we wouldn’t need to clear in but no, all formalities had to be gone through. We’d barely arrived and were just contemplating a nice cup of tea when we were hailed from a dinghy. It was Don and Sue who we met in St Kitts and ate Christmas Dinner with. They were able to give us some advice on clearing in and where to dinghy to and we arranged to eat together the following night.

The next morning we inflated the dinghy and, carrying the laptop and all its accoutrements, set off to try and find the dinghy dock near the airport and also an internet cafe so we could sort out some travel arrangements for future crews.  There were many dinghy docks but they all seemed to be attached to houses and we failed to locate the recommended one, eventually tying to one that at least gave access to the road. This turned out to be private and the owner was, understandably, a bit unimpressed but took pity on us when we said we wouldn’t be long. However on arrival at the airport customs and immigration were absent and we were told they’d be back in half an hour. Assuming this to be an island half hour Ted went t move the dinghy somewhere more acceptable and I waited. Ted reported that the owner of the dock we tied to was quite apologetic on his return but he moved it anyway onto a sheltered dock in the lagoon between our anchorage and the open sea and walked the half mile back to the airport. In the meantime officialdom had returned quicker than expected and I was fending off questions about whether we had mangos on board (fear of importing a mango weevil). Having filled in several forms and detailed the fruit and vegetables we had on board but without needing the fingerprint check Ted arrived back and we were officially allowed in. We were also issued with a cruising permit, which apparently we should have got in St John, entitling is to cruise US waters for 1 year.

Then it was off to search for WiFi. Don had recommended somewhere down by the ferry dock, but they closed at 1pm and it was just after that time. However it seemed that nearby a pizza parlour also had some so we bought 2 pizzas and sat down for an internet session. This proved so complicated and frustrating that by the time it was successfully concluded we were late back on the boat to meet up with Don and Sue in time for happy hour, but we followed them ashore and met up with them in Mamacitas, a popular watering hole with its own dinghy dock, to discover it was Don’s birthday. A most enjoyable evening was spent, which also seemed to involve quite a lot of food. It has been noticeable in the American islands that portions have generally been huge and so it proved with the ribs that Ted ordered. We offered coffee on board Moorglade but the wind was blowing hard and the dinghy ride was quite wet so Don thought he’d rather go straight back.

The next day we needed to shop so we headed to the shop with its own dinghy dock. Unfortunately when we got there it was closed, in spite of claiming to be open from 7am to 7pm, so Ted moved the dinghy to the town dock and I walked round to the other shop, which had a more restricted range of goods. Then it was back to Mamacitas for lunch and hopefully a sight of the iguanas that live in the adjoining mangroves and walk past the tables.

After lunch we dinghied over to Song to say goodbye to Don and Sue and then back to the boat to make preparations for the sail to Vieques the next day.

 

    

 

First views of Culebra                                                            Greeted by Don and Sue just after arriving

 

      

 

The dinghy dock we should have found for customs at the airport    This bridge was put in as a lifting bridge for 2 boats but no longer lifts

 

    

 

The view out to seaward from the bridge                             and into the anchorage at Ensanada Honda in the opposite direction

 

    

 

Ted undefeated by American sized portions of ribs                  Dinghy dock at Mamacitas

 

   

 

Some lunchtime companions

 

  

 

Sighted in the lagoon between the anchorage and the sea

 

    

 

The ferry dock to seaward (The wifi pizza place is behind it)         Ensenada \honda anchorage

 

   

 

Saying goodbye to Don & Sue (no sign of Max)              Moorglade in the anchorage