Day trip to Saba

Moorglade's Voyage
Ted Wilson
Mon 9 Jan 2012 16:58

Saba is a Dutch island and is little more than a volcanic mound in the sea. It is so steep that the residents were told it was impossible to build a road up from the harbour and they should continue to transport everything over the rocky paths. But what an example of the Big Society in action! One of the inhabitants took a correspondence course in civil engineering and the islanders designed and built their own road. Later with some specialist help they also flattened a rocky bit of coastline and built a short airstrip as well. The 2 towns are called The Bottom  (down by the harbour) and Windwardside, the capital (up the hill and on the other side of the island) There is very little by way of natural resources , (in fact one wonders why anyone thought it was a good idea to settle there in the first place!) and they are developing a bit of a niche with eco-tourism with hiking in the rain forest and diving.  They have also managed to attract one of the ubiquitous private American Medical Schools. We didn’t have time to hike and don’t dive so we opted for a taxi tour. This amounted to little more than a taxi ride to Windwardside and slightly beyond and Peterson, our driver, took every opportunity to pick up other fares along the way. He dropped us for lunch at Scout’s Place (further along there was Guide’s Place but we never ascertained if they were linked or in friendly rivalry), where we had a great meal  including a chocolate cake to die for, and then we visited the little museum and wandered about the “town” (the entire population of the island is only that of a medium sized village so it seems OTT to call it a town) before Peterson picked us up (he was passing with another fare!) and took us back to the ferry, via a wonderful shop selling beautiful glass jewellery and other artefacts made from glass.

The swell had picked up a lot while we were there and it was obvious why it was a good idea not to be there with the yacht. It was quite exciting enough boarding the ferry which was surging and bouncing alongside the jetty. On the return journey we were able to sit up front with Anke, the captain, and get a good view of the controls. The ferry had two very slender hulls driven by water jets rather than propellors and seemed to take a lot of steering to keep it running straight in the waves and swell.
 
          
 
First view of Saba                                                                                   The harbour, where the power plant is sited
 
       
 
The road that couldn't be built. They call the wall alongside it 'The great wall of Saba'
 
   Tribute to the self taught engineer. There are very view families on the
island and Hassell is a name that crops up frequently
 
     
Local fauna and flora. The flowers generally were much brighter and more prolific than we have seen on the other islands this time.
 
    
 
There are an amazing number of churches serving a small population. This one (Catholic) had this beautiful ceiling
 
    
 
The houses cling to the hillsides and the rain forest is very dense and verdant
 
   
 
The airstrip (apparently it's like landing on an aircraft carrier)     Windwardside - all the houses on the island have red roofs and white walls
 
     
 
lunch at Scout's Place                                                                 It seems to be accepted to create a family graveyard in the back garden
 
      
 
For some reason the Venezuelans had donated a memorial to Bolivar     The Saba museum. Most of the properties had a concrete water
                                                                                                           storage tank like the one seen here
 
    Pictures in the museum showing what life on the island used to be like
 
 
   
 
Mustn't forget Saba is a Dutch island                                                Lovely glass objects made on the island. There were turtles and
                                                                                                      sea horses as well as jewellery
 
     
 
View of the anchorage looking calmer than it was (no yachts)              Waves breaking on the harbour entrance
 
          
 
The Edge - replacing Moorglade for the day                                      Casting off. It was quite a big step up and down for boarding