Tazacorte, and the Lockdown
Persephone... Cruiser/Racer
Nigel & Karen Goodhew...
Mon 13 Jul 2020 09:36
I recall a rather pleasant sail, starting with a little bit of upwind action away from Las Palmas, to clear the northern point of Gran Canaria, then a reach across the channel to pass to the north of Tenerife, and an overnight run down the western flank of Tenerife rounding the south eastern tip of La Palma just after dawn.
The famed acceleration zones around the tips of the Canary Islands played their part, and we were pleased that we had slabbed in our first reef at dusk the evening before as the gusts off La Palma were strong enough to blow the spray off the wave tops.
As we rounded the corner though, on a fabulously bright clear morning, to pass into the lee of the line of volcano craters that is La Palma, the wind suddenly switched off, and our journey was completed with 3 hours of gentle motoring in flat calm and glassy seas.
We arrived at Tazacorte around midday, to a delightfully laid back and informal welcome, and a marina with a noticeable sunny and surge free status, nestling behind huge concrete sea defences and beneath towering volcanic cliffs of black rock.
Flights were booked and car hired.
We toured the island for a couple of days, scaled the aforementioned towering cliff on foot, like mountain goats, sampled the hospitality of the little town of Tazacorte and then prepared Persephone for a short period alone, while we returned to the UK for a couple of weeks.
Our flight out was uneventful, but the conversation everywhere was about the spectre of Covid 19. Our return flight was to be the last direct flight from London of the season on 28.3.20.
But then we were locked down. And so was much of Europe, including the Canaries, La Palma and Tazacorte. Apparently armed police enforced the early stages of the lockdown here.
And now, nearly 4 months later, we have been able to return. (Luton to Tenerife, ferry to Santa Cruz, via La Gomera and hire car across the volcano range to Tazacorte, 23 hours in total door to companionway).
Persephone has been fine. A Calima had brought her a coating of Saharan dust, and there was clearly an urgent need for a lift out and scrub off as the sea life hanging from the hull after months sitting still was quite a sight.
As I write, we have been back about 5 days and all the jobs have been done, the boat is polished top and bottom and we are preparing to leave the Canaries and head back to mainland Europe.
The planned destination is Vigo, about 1100 miles upwind. A weather window is opening in a couple of days, with light to moderate winds, and importantly, sea state. We might stop in Cascais if we need a rest en route.
Before then we plan some more walking in the Caldera de Taburiente, which is the largest volcanic crater in Europe, and a wonderful wild national park, cris crossed with walking trails to cater for all levels of leisure walkers.
The winter months see large numbers of German visitors, but they seem to have returned home for the summer, and the Island is now Spanish with a few Brits, Swedes and Dutch....
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