10TH SEPTEMBER

Persephone... Cruiser/Racer
Nigel & Karen Goodhew...
Tue 11 Sep 2012 08:08
10th September…success with Ruffian's engine. We managed to compare the electrical installations between our boats to assess where the problem was with Ruffian. More head scratching, but it seemed clear that the battery power was not finding it's way properly to the starter.

Removing the alternator to get a clearer view of the connections, we found the negative strap between the alternator and engine block had failed. Luckily, between us we had enough spares to make up a new one and bingo! Not only did the engine start but the alternator was still functioning and had not been damaged….result!

So then off to Nazare.  This is a town with a more traditional feel than the others we have seen so far. Despite the clear attractions of the huge beach with atlantic rollers pounding it day and night, sounding rather like distant cannon fire…step a street or two away from the seafront and you find yourself a hundred years ago….in narrow streets paved in black and white blocks, with dozens of little restaurants serving, not unnaturally, classic fish and seafood dishes, older inhabitants passing the hours playing cards, drinking small coffees and peculiarly, seemingly hundreds of old ladies, each dressed entirely in black, sitting outside often immaculate but tiny houses, offering overnight accommodation, and holding placards to confirm the authenticity of their proposal.

Together with Ian and Fiona from Ruffian, we found a bar and considered our options over a beer or two. First the funicular to visit the old town sited on the cliff top overhanging the newer beach based conurbation….when I say newer, I mean less than 300 years! At the top were magnificent views, a beautiful domed church and the bullfighting ring…though the only event advertised was the last fight which was last night. I think we agreed that we might not have extracted too much enjoyment, had we been….we are so influenced by the subliminal undertow of modern political correctness….

Ian and Fiona kept their boat for some time having a refit in Warsash…opposite the Rising Sun, which is no more than a hundred yards or so from Persephone's berth!  We have a number of friends in common from past racing adventures. Ian has sailed with Jeffo in the Swan Cup.  They are on a long term adventure in Ruffian, which has taken in Scotland and Iberia to date and looks like developing into a Carribbean one too, so our paths are bound to cross a lot in future!

Down to the bustling lower town for a couple more beers and then the selection of our eating destination. It was like flipping several coins….but we felt we would need to be unlucky to pick a bad venue.

We all went for different seafood options, some traditional, others classic, washed down with white wine and topped off by a digestif…a bottle of sweet amaretto flavoured light liqueur, and then a walk back along the beach back to the boats and bed at midnight.

A very satisfying day indeed, and new friends as well.