Fw: Martinique and Dominica
Persephone... Cruiser/Racer
Nigel & Karen Goodhew...
Sun 20 Jan 2013 23:06
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We set off in characteristically feisty conditions
from St Lucia to Martinique. Having said goodbye to Tim and Oli, we were down to
the four of us, Michael and Anna Robson and Karen and Nigel.
Anna was at the wheel getting used to the Atlantic
waves as we cleared the island, when the first squall came in. We chose to head
for the Cul de Sac de Marin, on the southern side of the island of Martinique
and arrived after a 5 hour sail, fairly close to the wind in the still large
seas. Soaked to the skin in a mixture of salt and rain water.
Complicated navigation around shoals and sand bars
meant that concentration was needed as we closed in on the destination. We
passed the wrecks of at least 2 yachts beached high and dry on the sand banks.
Our diligence was rewarded by the revelation in the harbour as we
turned the last bend....around 1000 yachts at anchor, and absolutely no chance
to get into the marina.
Martinique is very french. The currency is the
Euro, they drive "a droite" you exchange rather than refill your gaz bottles and
the restaurants all serve excellent food with a bread basket, de
rigeur.
We found a spot to anchor just off the main channel
in about 6 metres of water and just ahead of Paul and Andie in Tallulah
Ruby. Cearance was by computer and all very simple. no taxes or overtime
to pay for.
The next day, we hired a small Peugeot and set off
to explore the island. It is all very french. French supermarkets, all the
French chainstores and out of town shops housed in steel sided warehouses, and
our first traffic jam in more than 3 months!
The capital is called Fort de France and is a
sizeable town. The streets bustle with activity, colour and noise. The fashions
are brash...women wear tight colourful clothing which flatters rather than
covers, and the whole commercial centre to the town pulses to a cacophany of
different reggae beats. large speaker stacks are everywhere, pumping out the
music, which has- more often than not, a rap angle to it.
We lunched in an inexpensive restaurant before
heading off to St Pierre - the old capital, destroyed by a volcano in 1902. This
town is slowly recovering and we found it had a sleepy charm...and being further
north, made for a decent stop off point as we cruised up the Windward Island
chain.
The island of Marinique is said to be many
travellers' favouirite Carribean island. I think we found it to be a wonderful
spot, but possibly just a little too french...a bit close to home,
perhaps?
Our trip north, punctuated by a delightful stop in
the relatively deserted anchorage at St. Pierre. led us next to Dominica. Our
selected anchorage was Portsmouth, close to the northern tip of the
island. Motorsailing gently towards the anchorage in mid afternoon, we
were greeted - some might say ambushed, some three miles out, by Albert. He
graciously offered us a whole range of services, and was not in the least
offended when we turned most of them down, but he left us alone to select and
complete a safe anchorage, before reapproaching us to set out his story. We knew
little of Dominica, except that they won their independance from the UK in the
late 1970's and were immediately hit by a large hurricane. They have apparently
suffered reputational damage through problems with crime and drugs etc. Albert
is an accredited guide and is licensed to offer his services by the ministry of
tourism. He and the other Portsmouth "boat boys" run security patrols all
night to protect visitors' boats, and have been doing so for about seven
years.
Ashore, the town of Portsmouth has a single street,
is clearly a good deal poorer than any of the places we have visited so far, but
has a certain simple charm and warmth which gives one the feeling that this is
how the Carribean used to be. We followed Alberts recommendation and dined at
the "Purple Turtle" beachside restarant, where we had fresh tuna, creole
style...
At 7.30 sharp the following morning, Albert
took us in his boat to visit the Indian River - a fabulously picturesque river
through mangrove swamp forest, with a huge range of wildlife on view, from
iguanas, through to land crabs - an absolute delight. The river was also
the set for several scenes of the Pirates of the Carribean movies, and our very
own Albert had been part of the ground (or should that be water?) crew and had
been "this close" to Orlando Bloom and Johnny Depp! The episode had
clearly made quite an impression on him.
Reluctantly, I think, we upped anchor in the
morning and set off for Guadeloupe - the next whistle stop before we go to
Antigua.
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