More St Maartin, St Martin and Anguilla
Persephone... Cruiser/Racer
Nigel & Karen Goodhew...
Thu 14 Mar 2013 13:18
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As we returned to Simpson Bay, we were called up on
the VHF by Sir Battical...last seen in Port Louis Marina, Grenada, on New Years'
Eve. We had already hatched a plan to anchor in Simpson Bay, outside the
lagoon and make a dash for the electrical shop to collect our replacement engine
start battery, coming in from Florida. Nigel found a spot close to
Sir Battical's anchorage position and set off in the dinghy to collect the
battery.
However, as with all things Caribbean, the
delivery deadline had been missed, so the battery would now be shipped air
freight and come in a few days.
We assuaged our disappointment in a happy
evening in the St Maarten Yacht Club and then a delightful currry with Phil and
Colin, swopping stories of Atlantic derring-do and subsequent Caribbean
adventures.
Next morning, we set off ahead of the St Maarten
Heineken Regatta, to Marigot, on the French side of the island. This is
completely different...more of a village feel, with more services aimed at
"normal" yotties rather than the superyacht community. Some folk asked why
we did not enter the lagoon itself and save a few miles, crossing the island by
water....Well, Nigel saw more than a few local race boats, in preparation for
the regatta, run aground in the lagoon and require towing off...and after
surveying part of the route in "Percy" our trusty dinghy, we decided that
the risk of grounding, particularly on the French side of the lagoon was too
high...so we went around the coast instead.
After an evening of drinks aboard Sir B, who came
around a few hours later, we waved them off to Anguilla in the morning and set
about some serious victualling of Persephone. French supermarkets offer a
great deal more variety and quality than others we have found, so we took
advantage and stocked up in 3 or 4 runs to the shops.
The French side of the island is more colourful,
has mains water, and uses the Euro...the french language is in wide use too and
the restaurants have a south of France feel to them. We liked it.
With a few days to wait before the blessed battery
was due to arrive, we decided to flit across the small gap to Anguilla, the
northernmost Leeward Island, and chose the morning of the St Maarten Regatta
retturn race from Marigot to Simpson Bay to do it. We had a ringside view of the
fleets as we lazily sailed around the west side of the island, en route to the
Anguillan port of entry, Road Bay.
Anguilla is a treasure...the furthest flung of the
Leeward Islands, the welcome is very engaging and, well, welcoming. The
beaches are superb, the water crystal clear and it was not lonng after we
anchored, that the snorkel gear was out and put to good use.
American influence is strengthening at this end of
the archipelago, and we heard a lot of them in Anguilla. It is a delightful
spot, perhaps resonant of the Caribbean in the early days of development.
Again, we lked it's sunkissed beaches, and air of simplicity.
Nigel investigated a wrecked coaster, washed up
onthe beach and on bank holiday Monday (James Roland Webster day)...we were
treated to a fine display of local racing in traditional boats. This was a
Caribbean "open meeting" with 11 boats in atendance, brightly and beautifully
preparred. Huge steel masts supported the triangular mainsails and smaller
jibs, and the crews of up to 9 worked hard to do all the things we are familiar
with in yacht racing. One feature was that the helmsman sits low in the
boat, with not much of a vieew of proceedings outside the boat, so
receives instructions from the big man in the middle of the "rail" as to were to
steer the boat.
RRS"s (Racing Rules of Sailing) were updated in
January and we have not yet seeen a copy, but if these guys were following
the new code, then starts are going to be interesting on the Solent....boats are
beached, one man stands in the water at the bow, the starting signal goes
off and the crews have to turn the boats round, gybe and set off
downwind......magnificently chaotic and all taken pretty seriously by everyone
involved. The 3 hour race was to the end of the island and back and the finish
was back at the beach from which they started.
Persephone is back in St Martin on Tuesday to
collect the battery...and then off to the BVI's!
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