19 July 2012 – Stubbekobing
Yesterday was a long day, leaving Sassnitz at 8am, and arriving at anchor in the Grensund just outside Stubbekoping at 9m. The wind was stronger than expected; and more northerly in direction than expected: so much so that we ended up beating up to the NE corner of Rugen, and then continuing close-hauled to see how far we could get. The total mileage was 78, rather than the 60 planned.
Our neighbour in Kroslin had described the buoyage in Denmark as sticks with loo brushes on the top. Roger had thought this was a dutch tall tale – but not so! The Port-hand buoys are just as described, and a photo will follow. The anchorage was super. Roger wanted to anchor in 4m (OK in a tideless spot) but it still feels unnatural.
We came into harbour mid-morning in pouring rain, and targeted the fuel berth. The key for the pump was at the chandlery half way up the street. There was a very helpful lady who gave instructions in English – and a credit card machine for payment. The transaction was all done on trust that I would come back. The pump dispensed just over 300l, and then stopped working. (The tank had run out of fuel.) I went to pay; the cost was 3600DKr but her machine would not take foreign cards. So, off to the hole in the wall, which it turns out will only dispense a maximum of 2000DKr a day. This debt was getting embarrassing. Fortunately, Roger has brought his debit card with him, and so was able to get his 2000Kr; and the debt could be paid. It left a nasty taste.
Once we had a bit of cash things started to feel more on an even keel. We paid for the berth (165Kr) by credit card at the automatic machine; and found that we have internet access (a bonus.) The rain eased up. The electricity was plugged in. As we’ve found on all our travels, everyone has been as helpful as possible, and make themselves understood in English. We had a wonderful cheese and bacon burger and chips from the harbour café opposite the berth – 100 Kr well spent (just over £10.) Prices seem broadly similar to the UK and Germany, although dependence on cash will drive us back into Germany more quickly than anything else.
At 4.40pm, the rain clouds came over and it’s been pouring with rain ever since. When will summer temperatures arrive?
We’re now planning where next. The anchorages and marinas in Denmark tend to be shallow, so there aren’t as many options as we would have liked. I think we’ll stay another day here, and then carry on a bit further west.