Islas Cies

Magnetic Attraction
Roger and Margaret Pratt
Mon 9 Sep 2013 19:50

9 September 2013 – Islas Cies




After a night at the top of the Vigo Ria in San Simon we came here last night Sunday.  It’s a very rolly anchorage, and not very comfortable.  There’s a decided nip in the wind, and it was 18C this morning.  Autumn is coming!

The Islands are a nature reserve, and access is very limited.  I applied for anchoring permission online back in January, and then had to book in advance the days when we planned to be here.  All a bit of a palaver, especially when the majority of visitors come in great hoards on the ferries from Cangas, Vigo and Baiona.  The Island is aggressively protected: with a few, well-marked footpaths; no dogs; and lots of signs saying zona protégé.   Many of the paths are through eucalyptus and pine woods.

The island is very pretty, but I suspect that it’s now past its best.  There were lizards, darting about: but otherwise very little wildlife of any description: birds, butterflies or flowers.  It felt very sterile.  But the best bit we clearly missed: the tourist info office was closed til 1645, and advertised “An exposition of marine bottoms.”  Comprehensible, but still mind-boggling!  We’re glad we came.

Once the path climbs above the trees, the view over the islands is phenomenal.


We got ashore at about 11am, hauled the dinghy up the beach and walked until 2pm, when we stopped at the Bar Serafim for lunch.  We were among the first: and took a table overlooking the beach, under the shade of a big sycamore tree.  The menu came with pictures, with “Si” beside the dishes on offer.  Roger had “Rooster Fish” and I had a veal steak. 

The tide was rising, and we went for a beer whilst the waves reached the dinghy. (Less far to lift it back into the water.)  Roger was more relaxed than I about the progress of the tide, and we were about 25m away when a wave lifted it off the beach and it started to drift away.  A toddler with great presence of mind picked up the painter in the shallows, supported by his father.  Roger started to RUN!

Back to Baiona for provisions tomorrow; and providing the weather holds we’ll be in Portugal on Wednesday.  I do hope that the weather starts to get warmer again – we need to practice with the bimini!