12:58.11N 42:50.50E
While in Anfile Bay we were joined by more rally yachts as the
days went on. Others were in nearby anchorages or still further north
and waiting for the winds to be more favourable for continuing
south. Reception on VHF was exceptionally good in the afternoons so we
were able to keep
in touch with most of the others,
even though some were around 90 miles away. We also have a twice daily
net
using the HF (short wave) radio. This has much greater range but
interference can be a problem (and only a few yachts have HF sets).

Navigator's duties include reef spotting
We kept busy with regular get-togethers ashore and the unending
battle
with weed growth on the hull. Finally we left a week ago with only
light headwinds to confront. These tend to build up during the
afternoon and
evening, then drop off in the early hours of the morning. During the
day we motorsailed to make as much headway as possible until the winds
were strong enough to sail and allow us to make reasonable progress
without burning any diesel.

Tacking inshore to avoid current - night-time navigation aided by
computer
We had to keep inshore to avoid the
adverse current and with luck (and bravery!) to benefit from counter
currents. Sometimes we had enough east in the wind to allow
us to sail longer legs on port tack, but progress
was slow. Since leaving Suakin in Sudan we have not been able to
re-fuel so we've had to make decisions over when to use the
motor and when not.
After 36 hours we were only making slow progress tacking to
windward so we decided to stop at Mersa Dudo, where another 2 rally
yachts were already anchored. This is a spectacular anchorage
under the crater of a volcano and surrounded by lava
fields. We would have loved to have spent longer there but after a
good night's rest we set off at dawn on Thursday, our 27th wedding
anniversary!

The anchorage at Mersa Dudo
The next 36 hours were more taxing. The wind strengthened during the
morning so we were able to make steady if slow progress to windward
under sail. By the evening the wind reached Force 7 for a few hours
and then dropped off again during the early hours. We're out of
practice sailing to windward and sail changing during the night is
always hard. In the
morning the wind had dropped again so we motorsailed; no chance to
relax however as our electric autopilot blew up! We eventually
passed the port of Assab reaching a nearby island anchorage in the
early afternoon.
Staying inshore was not as difficult as it would be further north. The
offlying hazards in this part of the Red Sea are few and we were able
to enjoy the scenery along the way. The days have been sunny and
temperatures in the high 20s C but there is generally enough wind to
keep cool. We are passing down the coast of one of the
hottest and most inaccessible places on earth, the Danakil. The
scenery is
often very beautiful, with mangroves onshore and sculpted sandunes in
places.

Islands just offshore

Spectacular coast of southern Eritrea

Volcanic formations just north of Aseb
The sea is teaming with fish and when not feeding the seabirds
keep us company. Occasionally we see a coastal patrol boat. These are
open boats powered by outboard motors and usually have 3 or more men
inside. They sometimes like to check yacht's papers but the only one
that came really close to us asked (politely) for food and drink. We
gave them some biscuits and a bottle of water and they were very happy.
We're in another beautiful spot and we had a peaceful time here until
the next day when 11 other rally yachts joined us, including Mistral.
Paul set about investigating the problem with the wheel pilot and soon
was on the satphone seeking a replacement. We're now expecting to get
one sent to Aden and with the help of Sepia, who are already there,
have made the necessary arrangements. In the meantime we will have to
manage without.
Our mornings are busy: Paul has become the rally weather "frog". Only
some of the yachts have a satphone and we find ours indispensible for
downloading weather "grib files" every morning. Once processed, Paul
broadcasts the information to the other yachts on the HF and VHF
at agreed times. The HF radio uses a lot of power so we have to wait
until after then to start the watermaker which also uses a lot of power
but needs to be run about an hour each day to keep our freshwater
stocks up.
Again waiting for strong winds to subside we are well looked after in
this lovely spot. The pelicans and mansized grey herons that feed on
the fish at low tide don't seem to mind us being here. The local
fishermen are happy to provide us with fresh fish of all kinds (shark,
tuna, king mackerel, large sole/halibut, crabs, etc) and even help us
light fires for the barbecue. We are very low on fresh vegetables but
living very well from our on-board stores, making fresh bread and every
few days.

Fishing craft out of Aseb
Tomorrow is the day we've been waiting for when the forecast
shows
favourable winds so we expect to leave in the morning and reach Bab El
Mandeb, the straits at the southern end of the Red Sea, by the
evening. The Gulf of Aden beckons at last!
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