Daniels Bay, Nuku Hiva and Uo Pou.
We are making excellent progress towards our destination,
Tairapa Pass on the SW corner of Manihi, and have in fact just started to slow
down so we do not arrive too soon (or too late) for the critical time to
navigate through the only pass through the reef into this Atoll. We have made
an arrangement for a local
Whilst we were in Nuku Hiva, BWR organised a trip to
Much to the amusement of said local couple,
BWR Yachts in
The next morning at 0800, the survivors of the beach party
set off for the
We jumped in to the dingy and went around to the next bay. Behind the beach there is a lagoon, accessed via a very narrow fast flowing stream (outflow of aforementioned waterfall). Here there is a village with several families and a small church. The main activity seemed to be copra production and fishing. They have their own road. One third of a mile long and at least two Toyota Hilux pick up trucks. But the road doesn’t go anywhere!!! Apparently the French administration offered to build them a road out of the valley, but they declined.
On our second night in
It was actually too rolly for him to get all the way to the
top of the mast, but he saw enough to pronounce the rig fit to support sailing
Oa Pou is stated as having the most striking skyline on the
planet with some of the best scenery in
We had planned to stay in this bay on the NW corner of the
Hakahau is in fact the principle harbour for the island, and the anchorage is tucked neatly behind a breakwater, adjacent to the Ferry Dock. There are also good landing points for a dingy.
As we came into the bay, we saw a lone yacht mast. Once into
the anchorage we saw that it was Anahi. As we got closer and dropped the hook,
Paul and Harriett started waving like mad, then jumped into their dingy and
came over for a cup of tea. They filled us in on all the rally gossip and then
suggested we go ashore for a Chinese meal in a rather “quaint”
restaurant. Needless to say, crew very readily agreed!! They also warned us of
the arrival of the
Shortly after this and before departing for the restaurant with the three Anahi’s, we watched with interest as the local Gendarmerie launched a Merry Fisher motor boat from a Landrover and trailer off the beach. It took three of them to do this. What could this be for we asked ourselves. For us!! A very nice polite Gendarme, came along side in said Merry Fisher and invited us to visit him after 0700 the next morning in his police station, to register. How could we refuse such a charming invitation…………
We had a brilliant night in a whacky restaurant on the front
lawn of a private house. The restaurant is run by Mr Lee from
Aruni 3 negotiates the harbour, at 0600
The following mooring we had a rude awakening at 0600 as Arunui 3 arrived with its horn blaring at Anahi to get away from his path. Paul managed to get his anchor up and clear the dock just in time. We did not have to move, but he came real close………The way they moor is fascinating. He drops a bow anchor, from the port side then lets out chain and motors against this until he is nearly parallel with the quay. Then stops letting out chain and so swings through 90 degrees. The manoeuvre is completed by small work boats taking a bow and two stern lines ashore and placing them on bollards. These are then winched tight from the ship, thus securing him alongside. Neat!! Must try it one day……………..
So we were ashore before 0700 to visit the police with our papers, and to get bread and provisions. Along the way we spotted a traditional twin hull war canoe in its thatched hut on the beach.
The charming gendarme pointed out that the Arunui 3 would deposit some 60 first class passengers on shore and that the locals laid on a traditional welcome for them. He virtually insisted we stay to watch this. So we did!
It was interesting to compare this to the same events we saw in Taiohae. This one had more colourful costumes and was more “professional”. But it lacked commitment and the participants looked bored most of the time. Enjoyable none the less. Just as this finished the heavens opened. So we decided to head back the boat and get on our way to our next destination.
We enjoyed Oa Pou, and were impressed by the friendly folks who seemed to be better off than those in Nuku Hiva. Relative term, but the houses were better built than those in Nuku Hiva, and there were more shops, albeit none of them has a sign up saying what they are!! It would have been nice to have had more time there. But that goes for virtually everywhere we have been on the BWR trip!
Next up……The Tuamotu’s. See you there!