FW: 00:44.9125S 090:18.454W

Mon 16^th - Wed 18^th, March

Much activity in the town today with a bizarre number of people wearing suits; a very strange sight on the Equator. Roads were closed to the tiny amount of traffic and a band played in the fish market.  We didn’t take a lot of notice although we realised it must be someone fairly well known when we saw the size of the press pack we walked into at the Darwin Centre. 

The giant tortoises are a hoot.  They are completely unfazed by people close to them and just carry on eating and wandering about.  The Darwin Centre has a breeding programme and is successfully releasing them back into the wild to restore their numbers but it is a long and slow process.  Lonesome George, aged 80, or thereabouts, is the last surviving giant tortoise from the sub-species that used to inhabit the island of Pinta.  Since he was rescued in 1972 numerous attempts have been made to get him to breed. For the last 35 years he has shared his enclosure with two females from another, closely-related sub-species without ever getting round to mating with them; perhaps like most tortoises he just does not like being hurried. Last year eggs were found in the enclosure he shares with two tortoises from the nearby island of Isabela, but they turned out to be infertile. Ah well, he’s still young in tortoise years.

This chap was more than happy to have his picture taken, sadly Lonesome George was considerably less obliging.  Probably fair enough

has he had posed for Prince Charles, The Duchess of Cornwall and the worlds press  less than an hour earlier - you can just about see him

to the right of the tree.

Next day we took a trip to the island of Floreana. Standing in shallow water on white sand with seal pups playing around us was amazing.  Back to the boat after lunch and on to snorkelling.  We had realised that our ‘English speaking guide’ was really no more than an escort who didn’t know much about anything which was a disappointment.  We were a little surprised by the casual attitude to safety as we went over the side into quite a strong current but everyone seemed to manage and the boat stayed close fishing people out when they had had enough.  The fish were fabulous but the real treat came when Mike spotted a turtle under a rock.  After a couple of minutes it swam up towards us and then alongside us for several minutes calmly looking over but showing no signs of wanting to get away.

A significant part of the fun of travelling comes from the people you meet and we had a very interesting day with Nicky, Rick and Francelle from Ithaca, New York.  Nicky and Rick divided their time between Ithaca and their home in Ecuador where they were in the coffee business.  We found out early on that they are neighbours of close friends of Mikes sister and brother-in-law who live in New York.  Small world indeed.  We also met Dominik from Switzerland but more of him later.

Mike and seal pup discussing football                                                                                                    Seal pups playing tag.                                                                   The turtle that came to say ‘Hello’.

Wednesday was a bit of an admin day with topping up the water tanks the main priority.  We had expected to spend many hours shuttling back and forth in the water taxi carrying jerrycans because there was no sign of fresh water other than in bottles.  We had been approached by a cheerful chap on the jetty who remarked on our sun tans having worked out that meant we had probably arrived by boat and would be needing water.  Clearly we had met the Mr Fixit and fix it he did arriving by water taxi loaded with water tank and Heath Robinson adaptation of a bilge pump.  Diesel and gas to follow.

The town is small, ramshackle in parts and very smart in others.  Tatty souvenir shops that could be in any country are next to galleries selling quality art and jewellery.  Everyone is friendly and welcoming and we have been surprised and delighted by how little English is spoken.  The town feels ‘real’ in that many of the shops are there for the local community and the tourists don’t overwhelm things.  Every night there was a lively and crowded volleyball match on the main street and we had been charmed when the customs man had invited us to go and look at the iguanas outside his office while we were waiting to check in.

Water water everywhere – but you still need a delivery boat to fill the tanks.           Pelicans avoiding all that unnecessary flying and diving by queuing at the fish Market for scraps.