Saturday 12^th June – Khania, Crete (Samaria Gorge)

35:31.123N 24:01.153E

The Dutch chap we spoke to in Monemvasía said Khania was a good spot from which to visit the Samaria Gorge; you catch the bus to the top, walk down enjoying the views, catch a ferry to the next port, catch the bus back to Khania.  Having not looked at the guide book for Crete at that point, it sounded quite a good idea for a pleasant day out.

In reality, the gorge is 18km long, reputedly the longest gorge in Europe, ranging from 3.5km to 3m wide.  It became a National Park in the 1960’s.  The hike is around 17km L - obviously Richard couldn’t resist.

We were up at first light and on the first bus (7.30am) to Ormalos, the village at the northern entrance.  The 42km trip took about an hour with the coach winding its way up into the mountains, the road becoming increasingly better suited to a mountain goat than a 56 seater coach – the views were good, albeit a little worrying in parts. 

The entrance at Xyloskalo (‘wooden staircase’), just beyond Ormalos, is at an altitude of c.1200m.  Once there we paid our entrance fee and were told to hold on to the tickets for the exit (they count you in and count you out to make sure there is no-one missing/dead in a ditch).  The scenery is spectacular and varied; initially you descend a steep winding path lined with Cyprus trees into the gorge, then there are various sections where you either walk along the side of the gorge or along the river bed itself.  The walking is hard as much of the path is uneven stones, gravel or rocks.  Fortunately the trees or the cliffs provide shade for much of the route, and there was a cooling breeze blowing through the gorge.

The mountains rise up on either side of the gorge to around 2000m.  In some places along the route there are signs warning of the possibility of rock falls and the need to walk quickly through some sections; near the start there is actually wire netting over the path in places. 

The guide book says not to worry about carrying water with you and it is right.  Every so often the path is joined by mountain springs providing a ready supply of fresh, cool water to drink. 

The guide books also report that the gorge was home to the Cretan horned ibex and golden eagles but these are now departing to quieter adjacent gorges.  We kept a look out for them but the only wildlife we saw, apart from some small birds, were homo touristica.  That said, although a noted tourist attraction, it was early enough in the season not to be too busy, and although there were always about a dozen people at the watering holes, the differing rates of progress meant that we were walking alone for most of the hike.

About half way, there is the abandoned village of Samaria itself, the locals being ousted when the area became a national park – it is not reported what the locals thought of this.  It is now a very attractive picnic spot for lunch, complete with some not-so-shy ibex who have discovered the market opportunities of being cute and now shamelessly pose doe-eyed for the cameras in exchange for scraps of lunch.

Just after lunch we set off again, then, disaster struck.  My right knee decided it had had enough and boy did it hurt.  There wasn’t any other way out, so I had to soldier on, with a stick to help my progress.  After a couple of km of this a guide from one of the organised tours went by and asked if I would like him to ask the park wardens to send a donkey or mule to take me the rest of the way.  Tempting, but I felt a bit embarrassed and declined.  The winding, uneven, rugged path and fabulous scenery continued mercilessly, but the second half was much flatter and easier going.  The path zig-zagged across the river bed – sometimes with stepping stones, sometimes with small ‘ladders’ laid across.

After another couple of km, by now with two sticks and Richard looking for backup sticks (or was he sizing up the pine trees for a box?), a second guide from one of the organised tours came past and offered assistance and some ointment for treating sprain injuries.  However, whilst considering this, rescue came in the form of a Spanish lady, whose name I shall never know, and whose face I can’t remember because I was in such pain but I would like to thank anyway; she handed me a sachet of ibuprofen that even Richard was impressed with – he informed me this was truly industrial strength stuff.  I quickly swigged it down and within 15 minutes, was walking along in much less pain, still clutching the sticks like a security blanket just in case.  Gosh that stuff was marvellous.

About 2km from the park exit there is what is termed the ‘iron gates’, one of the highlights of the gorge; this is the narrowest section of the gorge, being only 3m wide with walls 300m high; after this we trekked along to the exit and were duly signed out.  Luckily for me there was a mini bus offering a ride to the ferry at Agia Roumeli at this point which I gratefully boarded as it would have been another 2km to walk.

Agia Roumeli is a small hamlet consisting mainly of tavernas and holiday accommodation with a reasonable beach.  It has no road access so the only way in and out (other than by rescue helicopter) is by ferry.  Fortunately we made it to Agia Roumeli in time for the afternoon ferry; at this time of year there is one ferry at 5.30pm which collects up all the hikers and takes them east along the south coast to the village of Chora Sfakion which is where the buses and tour coaches wait.  If you miss the ferry then you have to stay in Agia Roumeli over night. 

The ferry trip to Chora Sfakion took about an hour with a brief stop at the tiny fishing hamlet of Lutro en-route.  Chora Sfakion looked a pretty harbour but immediately we arrived we had to board the waiting bus back to Khania, the last bus of the day – this was a longer journey (87 km) and it wound slowly up and around the mountains, passing through some tiny villages.  We really like these local buses.

We arrived back at Pyxis around 9pm and we were both exhausted.  Whilst it was a lively Saturday night on the quayside, after some dinner aboard, it would have taken a riot to keep us awake… zzz.

Despite my knee conking out, it is one of the highlights of the trip, and I’d recommend it to anyone coming out this way.

Leaving Khania

Somaria

Agia Roumeli - Chora Sfakion

© Pyxis 2010