Thursday 23^rd August – Morgat - Concarneau

47:52.156N 3:54.825W

Despite our fondness for Morgat, we were starting to grow roots and felt that, as the local forecast was looking sailable for the next couple of days, it was time to move on.  We looked at the forecast for the Bay of Biscay and the winds were due to ease to F5 from the north today and then to F4-5 from the north before going north-easterly tomorrow.  We then looked at the forecast for Finisterre, where we would be heading to; it was showing gales arriving at the same time as we would.  Never mind, we could always head for a landfall further east.

Whatever, moving on was going to involve the infamous Raz de Sein, a vicious tide race with a fearsome reputation.  We set off from Morgat at around 9.30am – timed to allow us to arrive at the Raz at slack water as suggested by the pilot books and Almanac.  With no swell down to the Cap de la Chevre, we had a fabulous sail – as we cleared the headland the wind built to F5 on the beam and the swell increased giving a brisk sail to the Raz.

Considering it was neaps, and slack water, the conditions made me glad we weren’t meeting it under different circumstances; there was around 2m of swell and with 22 knots of wind on the stern, it was not the most comfortable ride but very exhilarating and there are so many lighthouses and interesting rocks around, it was definitely worth it. 

After such a brilliant morning, we then had to decide whether to continue south to Spain (dead downwind) or turn left and continue down the French coast.  I went to make lunch whilst we thought about it (meanwhile heading south).  When I emerged with some smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwiches (not with the crusts cut off!), the wind had completely vanished. 

We bobbed around with 3 knots of wind on the stern in a 2m swell whilst we had lunch.  The choice was then a donk on towards Spain (at least 2 days away) arriving with deteriorating conditions (not tempting) or a shorter donk down the coast and drop in somewhere when we feel like it (much better).  So we started to motor down the South Brittany coast. 

We did a bit of sailing in light winds and a bit of donking (the P’s called during one of these transitions so had a quick chat to them too). 

Around 2pm, the sea breeze kicked in, apparently renowned in this area, and boy did it kick in!  There followed a very satisfying few hours sail with 16-20 knots of wind on a beam reach which then became close-hauled as we tracked round the Pte de Penmarc’h, with us travelling at over 7 knots. 

As it got late, we had to decide where to head for the evening – Loctudy, Benodet or Concarneau.  We decided on Concarneau. As we crossed the last bay we just managed to stay ahead of a weather front passing out into Biscay but ended up having to motor-sail into 22 knots of wind for the last leg.

We arrived here at Concarneau at around 8.30pm.  We’ll take a walk around in the morning, but the view of it from the marina is very pretty.

Tonight I found a last tin of draught beer at the back of the fridge – cheers!