Thursday 30^th April – Hammamet, Tunisia

36:22.403N 10:32.776E

We were up early as we were leaving for Hammamet. Our inside neighbour also wanted to leave early for an appointment with the fuel berth as soon as it opened so we decided that that would be a good time to aim for.

However, just after we got up to have breakfast, I heard a knock on the galley window as I was putting the kettle on. I opened the window, still in my dressing gown, to find our neighbour was informing me that he would be ready to leave in 10 minutes. I told him that he was an hour earlier than he had said and that the fuel dock would be closed – he looked confused so I told him what time it was – unfortunately he hadn't changed his watch to Tunisian time and was still on Italian time. He apologised profusely and looked embarrassed at having disturbed me; I laughed and suggested he enjoy a leisurely breakfast until the fuel dock opened.

Richard then went ashore to sort out the departure formalities. As Kalibia is a fishing harbour the quay was busy with the local fisherman landing their catch.

When we left half an hour later, our neighbour was still very apologetic and helped with our lines. I heard later from Rosi and Otwin that he was also more than a little impressed with our exit manoeuvre – as the wind was blowing us off, we just let the lines off and simply allowed the wind to gently take the bow all the way round so that I could motor straight out of the harbour rather than reversing out – worked a treat (in fairness, it doesn't always go so smoothly.)

When we arrived last night, there had been a long procession of fishing boats, each towing small boats behind them, coming out of the harbour as the fleet went fishing for the night. This morning, on the way out of the harbour, we met all the fishing boats coming back into the harbour – they were all very friendly and we waved to them again.

It would have been nice to stay and explore Kalibia a little more but the forecast meant we needed to press on.

As soon as we were outside the harbour, the wind was blowing a definite F5 but the sea was almost flat as the wind was coming off the land. With no swell to slow us down we needed only a pocket handkerchief sized mainsail and genoa as we set off along the coast. We were close hauled at a jaunty but comfortable angle and flying along at 6 - 7.5 knots, speed over ground. The sun was out and the sky was blue, we felt like we were on holiday – it really doesn't get any better than that.

Unfortunately we did not see any dolphins today – yesterday we were joined three times by pods of dolphins on the bow as we were sailing from Bizerte and then there were two right in the fishing harbour itself in Kalibia (forgot to mention it, sorry).

As we sailed down the coast the wind gradually eased, just gusting up occasionally, and we gradually shook out more and more of the reefing to keep our speed up.

By the time we approached the point, Ras Mahmur, the wind had eased right off – we enjoyed a comfortable lunch and then shook out all the remaining sail. The wind then disappeared almost altogether - we drifted along at about 2 knots for a while to get round the corner and then the wind shifted direction slightly and picked up again, gusting a gentle F3. The wind shift meant we could make Hammamet without tacking and we had a fabulous sail to the marina, hand steering at times to make best use of the light wind; we didn't take the sails down until just outside the entrance.

As we entered the marina, we were met by a marinero in a RIB who took us to a large and comfortable berth, where another marinero was waiting to help with lines. I struck up a conversation with an English lady opposite. We were made to feel very welcome and were given the low down on the place.

Port Yasmine is a large modern marina, quite a contrast to the old fishing ports we have been staying in, but nicely appointed with decent facilities. As there is no wind forecast for tomorrow we will stay here and explore for a few days.

Enya arrived a couple of hours later and are berthed on the opposite pontoon; as their inside neighbours had not been heading off so early they had been able to stay a little longer in Kalibia. We went round to welcome them and stayed for a drink – they too had thoroughly enjoyed the sail down. A German friend of theirs arrived so we left them catching up with him and came back to Pyxis for a shower, dinner and good night's sleep.