Grenada
11:59.89N 61:45.74W 7th – 14th January 2011 Hi, we are finally updating our blog after another long
gap. This is partly due to relaxing into the Caribbean way of life and
partly as we have been so busy. I really don’t know where the time goes
what with sailing, swimming, provisioning, searching for dinghies, boat
maintenance and of course socialising. A month on from the ARC lots of
boats are still on a similar course so we have hardly had a day when we haven’t
chatted to another boat. Needless to say we are still having a lovely time. En route to Grenada we stopped for a night in Union Island,
a bit of an exposed anchorage but a lovely little town full of lots of
colourful shops. Fruit
Market on Union Island We then left St Vincent and the Grenadines and headed south
for Grenada. We cleared customs at Carriacou and then headed straight for
Grenada the next day where we anchored in Prickly Bay, our southern most point
at N11˚59’. Grenada feels very different to The Grenadines, much more
affluent and no boat boys in sight. St Lucia and St Vincent and the
Grenadines are more touristy and you are constantly hassled by boat boys in
little wooden boats trying to sell you something or help you find a mooring.
This can be great when you want fresh bread in the middle of nowhere or want
your laundry done but can also be a hassle . In Bequia they even
deliver diesel to your boat but you still haggle over the price! Grenada also seems to have no charter boats and be full of
mainly American long term live aboards who have their own little community with
regular get togethers and a daily radio net. Oddly we have seen very few
Americans elsewhere. The main tourism on the island comes from the many
cruise ships which dock daily in St Georges disgorging thousands of passengers
every day for a few hours before they head off again. St Georges the capital has a very old colonial feel about it
although is a bit grotty close up. The surrounding hills are however full of lovely houses many
owned by locals plus quite a few owned by what they call ‘snowbirds’ i.e.
foreigners fleeing the winter snow. Most of the land is still made up of
small family farms all growing a mixture of bananas, nutmeg and cocoa plus a
bit of fruit and vegetables. Banana trees Cocoa beans drying outside someone’s house The nutmeg factory where nutmegs are dried on racks before
being shelled and sorted. Sadly following hurrican Ivan in 2004 the
nutmeg production will take up to 20 years to fully recover so they are still
well below capacity On our island tour we also visited a rum distillery where it
is still made the same way as 250 years ago. Lots of sugar cane is pulped
and then fermented in big open bowls where it is manually spooned from one to
the other Fortunately this muddy liquiid is then distilled to a pure
white 70% alcohol, too strong to export on planes! We tried some and it
was horrible! Other pictures from the tour, a cuban plane left behind
after the americans invaded in 1983, a plaque from Leapers Hill which tells
it’s own story and us with Conor and Marion from Toucan with whom we shared the
car We loved Grenada and in addition to our cultural tour we
went to a great Sunday barbeque on Hog Island with the locals. We spent a
lot of time trying to buy a dinghy but despite false promises that some would
come in ‘tomorrow’ we left disappointed. There seems to be a Caribbean
wide dinghy shortage so Alan is very distraught. Our dinghy is OK but a
bit small and slow and every time we go anywhere we end up getting soaked as
the chop splashes over the sides. We of course also met up with a few other ARC boats whilst
here including Let It Be, Bavarian Spirit and Mariposa so no rest for our
livers!!!! The weather has continued to be unseasonably rainy and
windy. Everyone who went to Tobago Cays after us says it was too rough to
snorkel so we were lucky to go when we did. On our final night in Grenada
we moved from Prickly Bay to the posh new marina in St Georges as the wind was
picking up and quite a few boats were dragging their anchors. We delayed our departure a day as it was so windy but in the
end we had to leave to meet Alan’s mum in Bequia. We left at first light
and had a long 11 hour slog into 30-35 knots of wind with massive seas making
it to Mayrou just before dark, by far the roughest trip we have had since
leaving the UK. Fortunately it had calmed down a bit the next day as we
were in more sheltered seas so we made it to Bequia just in time. |