Babe on the Beach

   Rain and strong winds greeted us again today, however today the rain eased and the wind died as we sailed along the beautiful coastline. We picked up a buoy in the very picturesque Anse Cochon stopping for some snorkelling before a scrummy lunch on board of tomatoes, olives, basil and cheese mopped up with fresh focaccia. It was only a short sail from there to Soufriere where the spectacular Piton Mountains looked down on the bay. A mile or two out we were met by Joi who was apparently our man to help us moor. He shot off before we could answer and returned with news that the buoys by the bat cave were all taken but he could find us another. Home for the night was a buoy just off the shore at the other end of the town. After tying our line to the buoy he asked if there was anything we wanted to buy or sightseeing we wanted to do. He suggested a tour of the sulphur springs, waterfalls and gardens with thermal baths including a ‘beautiful picnic’. It sounded too good to miss and we agreed a price and to be picked up at nine tomorrow.

   We had heard that we would be much pestered in Soufriere, but I had no idea it would be this bad. Numerous boat boys came offering the usual baskets, fish, jewellery and fruit, as well as children from the shore on sailboards clutching onto the dinghy and begging for biscuits by the cockpit. They stood on the boards peering into the boat and through the windows with their boards bumping into Brindabella’s hull. We gave biscuits at first but when they returned with friends then demanded 2 US Dollars if we had no biscuits left it was beyond a joke. I know they are poor and rely on tourists to live but I was feeling extremely vulnerable. We closed the curtains, secured the outboard back on the stern and got the dinghy up on deck so it was out of easy reach. I wondered what we would come home to tomorrow.

   Finally unwinding in the cockpit we took in the view. People swam from the six lucky boats by the bat cave across the bay, the rocky shore and lush green headland just metres away. A resort and a couple of restaurants sat between there and the town with its crumbling but colourful wooden houses leading down to the shore. The houses then became smaller some little larger than beach houses at the poorer end of town by us. Brightly coloured clothes flew wildly from lines all around making a lively scene. Several people were crammed under a corrugated roof by the rocks at possibly a bar or BBQ where reggae boomed out. Colourful wooden boats edged the water. Chickens pecked about in the streets and homes for piglets where assembled from a mish-mash of wood, corrugated metal and fencing at the end of the shore. It was only when I stopped and focused that I noticed the tethered pig hopping about on a rock by the ‘bar’. This kept me amused for some time until in hysterics I watched a pinker than pink pig wander to the shore for a paddle!!!!!!! Oh, I’m so easily pleased! And if that didn’t amuse who wouldn’t be pleased by the awesome Petit Piton which stood behind us.

   Soufriere apparently means sulphur in the air and there was certainly a lot of it in the air as we ate dinner with the town a mass of twinkly lights. I felt nervous lying in bed at night for the first time.