We had planned to move to an anchorage further into the ria this morning but after a chat to our German friends on ‘Seehund’ we decided to take up their suggestion. Don’t laugh – we went on a boat trip! It was the last day of the year that ferries were running to Isla de Ons, a national park island with restricted anchoring. We had passed it sailing into this ria and it looked beautiful. We donned walking boots and rucksacks and set off. Si suggested one of the shorter walks before lunch, then the longer walks afterwards. We had only climbed half way to the lighthouse before Si was starving and wished we’d brought a picnic. I gave him a cereal bar and we continued on, deciding to join another route taking us further to the north of the island. The views were fantastic. The paths cut through thick bracken and gorse then to Si’s delight led us through eucalyptus trees with that heavenly aroma reminding him of home. Memories of our early Christmas morning walk through Noosa National Park came flooding back. This track took us to a white sandy beach where a few naked bodies were in danger of turning to lobsters in the now baking sun. We ditched our boots and sprawled out in the sunshine. We were prepared for a swim but although the water looked very inviting, it was also very cold. I paddled briefly.

   Lunch was an interesting event. The waiter spoke Spanish so incredibly quickly I didn’t catch a word except pulpo. There were no menus, just two house specialities pinned to the door. We tried in our best Spanish to order octopus for Simon and anything other than octopus for me. No joy – the other fish dish was sold out. Cold beer arrived and then minutes later a steaming wooden platter of octopus and basket of bread. It’s amazing what one will eat when hungry isn’t it?! And, I have to say it wasn’t half as bad as I thought it would be. I ate the pieces I could find without tentacles and suckers! Si was in heaven. By the time we had finished the staff had all sat down to their meal in a back room and Si’s chance of a slab of homemade cheesecake had past.

  The walk round the southern part of the island was just as wonderful with great views over the rocky coast. Giant waves crashed over the jagged peninsulas creating a foaming white contract to the dark, deep sea. We were back in time to eat ice cream on the quayside before the ferry arrived. From our seats on deck the evening breeze had a bitter bite. We zipped our jackets high around our chins and cuddled up. Long hot showers warmed us up before bread and cheese for supper.