Kupang & Komodo

Marita3
Mark & Helen Syrett
Tue 16 Oct 2012 03:14
We cleared into Kupang at Komodo and climbed Bligh steps---this is where Bligh arrived after 3,000 miles in an open boat with 23 loyal crew having been set adrift from the Bounty by the mutiny.
Kupang  was all hustle and bustle with 'bemos' (small van type buses with 12 people crammed inside) weaving in and out of the multitude of motorcycles.
There was not much to the place and a lot of the colonial buildings originally built by the Dutch were falling down so, having finally got 'cooperation' and our clearance papers from the Customs official, we departed but not before Mark had a £1 haircut by the lad in the background.
We sailed for Rinca and Komodo, a passage of about 280 miles. We spotted a raft in the sea. Thoughts of boat people, pirates, funeral rites, shipwrecks etc came to mind and we wondered whether or not to approach . Then another appeared much closer so we decided to investigate.
It was made of bamboo poles with a small mast with palm leaves as a sort of sail. We spotted about 5 in total over the next few hours and came to the conclusion that it was either a raft making competition or a festival of some kind. At least there were no bodies on board!
Our plan was to go to Rinca and then Komodo but there were no moorings at Rinca and impossible to anchor because of the depth---it was very beautiful
we sailed on to Komodo and were met by the boat boys who guided us to an anchorage
They took us to their village
lots of smiling faces despite the poverty and a real sense of community, all looking after each other. We signed the visitors book and made a contribution to village funds. 
Early  (0700) the next day we visited the Park and paid our entry fees which included a guide.
and then we were off dragon spotting and sure enough there they were at the watering hole with the deer and wild pigs.
a small one to start with and then a large one appeared---we saw four in all.
The trail then took us to a viwing point looking out over the bay
and then back to the village where more dragons were resting under the cook house---they are not fed but are attracted by the smell.
They are dangerous and killed a Japanese person a few years ago, only his camera and glasses were found. Their main diet is deer or wild pig and they hunt in packs of four. The bacteria from their bite paralyses their prey over a few hours and then they feast.
Tourist boats visit Komodo from Bali and Flores as part of a package including dragon spotting and snorkelling on some marvellous coral.