We left the Aeolian islands for Sicily with no wind whatsoever and such a haze that we needed the radar on to be sure of what was around us.  Although visibility improved we simply drove back to Sicily without a puff to help us on our way.

We berthed in the marina in Cefalu.  Another not exactly finished marina in the scruffy end of town with some rather eccentric touches.  The ‘bridge’ to the pontoon that is supposed to ride up and down to accommodate the few inches of tide in the Mediterranean had been tied up leaving a 3ft height difference to be climbed or jumped down from depending on which way we were going.  Where the pontoons joined to the main jetty to land the area was fenced off with 8ft high fences except for a small hole.  So, to leave the marina we needed to climb between pontoons then get on our hands and knees and crawl under a fence.  We are of course paying 50 Euros a night for this.  It turns out that there was some damage to the central jetty so it was fenced off!  Dangerous apparently.  This meant the entire harbour was cut off, and by the look of the fencing, it had been for some time.  Everyone simply ignored the fences and got on their hands and knees.  This was mainly a fishing harbour so it must have been massively inconvenient. 

Having successfully made it ashore we found the fuel dock.

Carefully placed in the middle of the beach a long way from any water deep enough for a boat to get near.  Later we saw a very, very long hose in a heap on the beach so that must be how it is done.  Get your boat as near as you dare without grounding and then 30 or 40 metres of hose will somehow be brought to you.  Fortunately we didn’t need any fuel.

We did need dinner though and walked into the town to find somewhere.  Michael was already on the case and had contacted a young man, code name ‘Tigger’ who knew the town well.  Tigger in fact is Mateo, son of one of the producers Michael knows well, and he had worked for Winetraders for a while.  You can guess why he is nicknamed Tigger.

Back to Michael, Our Man in Cefalu, who was off on a mission to reconnoitre the recommended restaurants.

He found both, chose what looked the most interesting, and it was.  Fully booked so we had to come back later for a table (good sign).  One young man serving and one lady in the kitchen and it was fantastic.  Somehow the young man had time to talk to all the customers; discuss the wine at length with Michael, and get the food out.  Another evening of surprises and delights.

Cefalu was very pretty with a cathedral built under an impressive rock face at its heart.  The cathedral, and much of the town, seemed to have been built by Roger the Second which caused much merriment as one of the most unlikely names for a King, and there had clearly been at least two of them.

Next day we said farewell to Sue, Charles and Michael who set off by train in different directions but within five minutes of each other.  We had had a great adventure and missed them very much when they left.

We left the marina for a night at anchor which turned out to be very, very rolly.