01 Jul 10
We have enjoyed pottering about the central of the three
peninsulas since we arrived on the mainland and today headed north to Nea
Mhoudania, a small, working harbour at the northern end of the western
peninsula. A nine hour sail and motor that included everything from no
wind to too much wind and a choppy, uncomfortable sea so we were pleased to
arrive. The electronic chart plotter map was completely different to the
one in the pilot guide book so we entered slowly, past a ferry and took a look
to try and work out what was what. What was what was that the harbour had
been redeveloped (thanks once again to millions of Euro’s from the EU)
and the Chartplotter was right. Once again we were faced with a fabulous
harbour and complete chaos. It was pretty clear from the layout of the
boats that no-one was organising anything and there was no one to guide us into
a berth or take our lines . In addition it was pretty shallow so we
nudged our way in, Mike shouted over to a couple of people on boats to ask
about depth and we found a space.
Fantastic bollards to plug into for electricity and
water. Not working. Swish harbour office. Completely empty
and deteriorating. Plumbed in fire fighting equipment – no idea,
but doubt that would have been much help if we had needed it.
Not a tourist in sight although the rest of the town had
clearly had money spent on trying to make it look smart and attractive and,
once again many shops with hardly any stock at all.
Roland and Michael arrived with 1,000 Typhoo teabags, gin,
vodka and Marks and Spencer pillows. Comfort and sustenance all in one
We set off the next morning back to Porto Koufo where they
paddled ashore to find the perfect restaurant.
And they did. A fabulous fish and selection of wine to
Michael had done a couple of sailing courses with Mike so
was keen to refresh his skills; particularly in the area of sail trimming
which he got down to a fine art. He will shortly be writing the
definitive guide and producing a regular column for ‘Sail Trimmers
Roland is an experienced sailor who Mike met when they
crossed the Atlantic together a few years ago. So experienced he can sail
without the use of his hands.
Meanwhile, with everything under control the skipper can
take a nap.
We were generally lucky with the weather and had plenty of wind
so could put Tashi Delek through her paces and enjoy the sailing. We
headed for the most eastern Peninsula – ‘Akti’ – and
spent a few hours motoring down the coast looking at the monasteries which are
worth a blog of their own.