A private anchorage in Astypalaia & a visit of Astypalaia chora

Knotty Girl
Tanya/Roberto
Mon 9 May 2022 19:12
36:32.8N 26:21.2E

After another beautiful very fast sail (35 nautical miles at average speed of 7.5 knots) and given that the wind was blowing about 21 knots when we arrived on the island, we decided to anchor instead of going to the harbour. We found an amazingly well protected (from the waves/swell but not from the wind of course) anchorage in OR. Skhinoudra. Immediately we spotted a restaurant that seemed very typical and charming on the beach in front of our mooring and that even had some trees in front of its terrace (The Cyclades Islands are pretty rough and with very little trees or green) and got very excited until we discovered, when we later went ashore walk around the tiny village in the bay just next to ours where there is a little cute fishing harbour, that  as most restaurants and coffees in that village, the one we spotted was also closed till at least the end of the month ! We did see a Taverna open, yet it did not inspire me. What inspired us on the other hand was a very colourful and interestingly decorated coffee shop (open - miracle !) called “Maltese” (or something like that !) which we read from sailors’ blog that they were serving very good “frappé coffee”, yet as it was almost 7 pm we decided to go for an Alpha beer instead (and should have shared one give the size of the beer !!) and some very good “mezze”!

The next morning we decided to visit Astypalaia and hence to go to its harbour were we moored (a la grec - hence with the anchor in front) and a kind Greek skipper of a charter boat assisted us. Two other sailboats were already there. The harbour can host about 12-15 boats in total.

Since we had water available we decided to give the boat a good wash. We then went up to visit the “Chora” - in particular the venetian castle on top of a hill above the Chora. While the outside walls are still up, the inside ones are mostly ruined unfortunately, yet definitively it must have been a very good spot to both hide and see the enemy coming !

We also saw the traditional windmills path (8 of them) above the Chora. At night in particular it must be very beautiful, yet we did not see that as we did not go out after dinner (too cold !).

We had a nice aperitif on Knotty Girl with the owners of the sailing boat next to ours, Linda and Dean - who are English and since 2018 mostly live aboard their nice Oceanis 50 called “Thésée" !