We are cruising the Chesapeake Bay, and trying to
find a boatyard to calendar in some of the work that needs to be done while we
are in New Zealand at Christmas; a heating system needs to be installed, and we
would like some new sails and cockpit cushions, a new propeller, and a paintjob
(oh – and please can we have a bowthruster?). Roland will do some of the work.
We have done about 9,000 miles in the last 18 months, so Restless deserves a bit
of attention. There are several thousand bays and coves in the Chesapeake, it would take
many years to explore them all. We are just visiting a few of
them.
Since we last wrote a month ago, we said goodbye to
our new friends Rhonda and John in Galesville, and returned to Annapolis. Feyona and
Andre left for Australia on 7
July, and we phoned Jeni in Charlottesville, who
decided to drop everything and drive 3 hours to Annapolis to spend the weekend with us aboard!
She found us in Church Creek, South River, and we went for a lovely sail in
Annapolis Bay and up the creek to Back Creek where we said
goodbye after dinner together in a café in Annapolis.
Roland’s cousin Caroline who lives in Washington,
drove to Annapolis to have lunch aboard, and took Consie home to Washington with
her to stay a few nights and enjoy life ashore (“cake-eater” is the phrase we
use) Caroline took Consie along to her quilting group, her birthday dinner,
shopping and to a movie ‘The Devil Wears Prada’. Roland came by bus for a couple
of nights, and managed to book airline tickets while we had access to the
internet. Roland also needed to get a new passport, but the NZ Embassy no longer
issue passports, they have to be sent to Wellington, the whole building is under
heavy security. Duncan drove us back to Annapolis on 15 July, where Roland investigated buying or
leasing a car as we want to be in Toronto on 1 September, for nephew Matthew and
Adrienne's wedding celebration.
We had fabulous emails from Livi, who stopped in
Beijing and Hong Kong on her way home to NZ and
her last semester at university in Auckland. She met up with her (red-haired)
friend Debi, and the two of them were finding out about Mandarin language
schools and job requirements. They had people lining up to photograph them, and
people were touching their hair, skin, noses and eyes! I told her she resembles
a popular Chinese devil-god with white hair and skin. She emailed us that the
song “There are 9 million bicycles in Beijing” is out of date! There are more! Gil is
skippering Four Bells, to Hamilton Island, for Race Week, leaving early August,
about 1300 miles.
16 July we joined our new friends Joan and
Jack and their family and friends on a Pirate ship. About 30 of us went out on a
pirate ship for a couple of hours and then returned to their waterside home for
lunch of Crabs and frankfurters outdoors under the trees. Then some of us had a
ride on a waverunner – great to try one out, but we’ll stick to sails!
Back to their house for cake and some went on kayaks, while others came to see
Restless and life aboard. We spent July in the Chesapeake with some thunderstorms and
temperatures in the 80s, 90s and 100s. We spent some days cleaning the boat, and
meeting our liveaboard neighbours and swapping information and stories, while we
waited for quotes from boatyards. There are dozens of ospreys, herons, ducks,
geese and swans, with almost adult young, defending their nests from each other.
At the end of July we motored over to the Eastern
shore of the Chesapeake, both of us have read
Michener’s book ‘Chesapeake’, and wanted to see some of the bays
and villages. We went first to picturesque St Michaels, and spent a day at the
Maritime museum, where we learned a little history, a bit about waterfowling,
antique boats: the skipjack and bug eye; crabbing and the oysterman’s life, they
have a working boatyard, and lighthouse. St Michaels was settled in late 1600s,
by watermen. It is famous for "being the town that fooled the British" during
the wars against Britain they put lanterns in the
forest, so the British attacked the forest, leaving the 5 boatyards and houses
largely undamaged. Our friend Jeni again drove 4 hours to see us, and after a
quick walk around town, we motored across to Hunting Creek for the night,
returning her the next day, there was a Crab Festival and 11 antique Chesapeake
Log Canoes racing. We left St Michaels, with the church bells ringing, and
motored through a very hot still day with mirror calm water to Balls Creek, with
a heatwave coming! The next day we anchored near the Tred Avon Yacht Club, in
Oxford, the club
of our friends Clacky and Sandy of ‘Crucero’, who we met in the ICW a year ago.
We had a week in the 100s (39-40C) and then down to the mid 90s, what a
difference a few degrees make! Hot, airless, no breeze, brown muddy water and
lots of jellyfish, even in our filters! Are we having fun yet? Yes, we have
met such wonderful people! it’s a bit overwhelming! Clacky drove us to Cambridge to a boatyard and to Salisbury to the local Decoy and Birdcarving Museum. We all went to dinner at the Tred
Avon Yacht Club, where we met their sailing friends, up to 96 years old, still
sailing. The club has a very active youth program, optis were sailing
around us in the heatwave.
We returned to the Western shores, to Lake Ogleton
and back to Annapolis, where we were waiting for estimates
for work. Our friends Jack and Joan
invited us to an American Baseball game!!!! The Yankees vs the Orioles, in
an aircon box with drinks, hot dogs, hamburgers, crabcakes and cookies. The box
was right over the batting plate and the Orioles won 5-0, it was just like on TV
but better. They also let us put Restless at their dock and stay in their
aircon, what luxury! Roland was busy running errands and bumped into old friend
Bruce Farr. The next few days we cruised up Mill Creek, Whitehall Creek, Ridout
Creek, looking for a marina to leave Restless for a month while we go north by
car. We were unable to find a vacancy, so we sailed under the Bay Bridge,
with thunderclouds threatening, 20 miles to Swan Creek in Rock Hall, on the
Eastern shore of the Chesapeake. We went ashore to a Marina and hired bicycles
and rode around Rock Hall, settled late 1600s, by watermen, crabbers and
oystermen. It is a tiny town of quaint small houses, and ripening corn in the
fields nearby. Roland saw a blue Toyota for sale, test-drove it, and bought it.
We saw a marina with new piles, Spring Cove marina, luckily they had not filled
all their spaces, and we reserved one for a month, so we could leave the boat
and drive up to Canada. Jenni was joining us for the
weekend, so the marina owner, Madeleine, gave us a lift to nearby Chestertown on
Saturday morning, where there was a parade on – Horses to Hummers, the
300th anniversary of the town, and we saw the Budweiser Clydesdales,
antique vehicles – Mustangs, Chevrolets, Pontiacs, and army Hummers. We walked round town, had lunch, and
came back to Rock Hall, did patchwork, and had a BBQ and a fabulous sunset. The
weather was beautiful and we all swam in the brown silty, almost fresh water –
no jellyfish, they don’t like freshwater. Our friends from Galesville, Rhonda
and John brought their powerboat to Swan Creek to visit us, and we had a BBQ
together and they slept aboard Restless.
We had to get some repairs done to our car before registration, and
insurance, ready to head north. We will visit R’s cousin Caroline and family at
their ‘Camp’ in the Adirondacks at Saranac Lake, and then go on to Toronto for
Matthew and Adrienne’s wedding celebration, and maybe a visit to Lake Methuen
before returning to Restless mid-September for a bit more cruising before the
Annapolis Boatshow. Consie leaves U.S 2nd October, and Roland will stay on
Restless until end November, when he will go to Los Angeles for Rory and
Joanie's wedding. Then we will put Restless on the hard in Deltaville
(Chesapeake) while we go to New Zealand for a few months for Christmas with
Gilbert and Olivia.