Towards Kapsali on Kythera
St Barbara's Web Diary
Peter & Sue Goldsmith
Sun 19 Apr 2009 19:12
36:08.58N 22:59.99E
12.00 19th April
Chania was delightful. A very beautiful harbour, cafes and tavernas all
around. Many people on holiday and most of them Greek. We all explored town
our different ways, wandering back streets and sea fronts. The architecture
is impressive, even the light house at the harbour entrance appears as a
tiered minaret in soft white stone. On shore the Italianate dominants, mixed
with Moorish influences and Cretan building fatigue to provide a cheeky
little number popular across the Peloponnese. Sorry, mixed the buildings
with the wine, let me continue. Cobbled streets and busy squares. Deserted
alleys calm yet yards from the bustle of town. Religion is big here, young
and old alike. Wandering on Friday evening we saw an open air service in the
precincts of a church. Amplified chanting to a congregation holding slender
candles. A big occasion being recorded by TV crews. On Saturday, it appears
that things can only get bigger. The town seemed busier, the promenade along
the quayside past StB continuous as people old and young alike cruised the
strip. Sunbathing in just shorts it was strange to see just how much local
people feel the cold, wrapped up in coats and boots, perhaps just fashion.
Our evening excursion for dinner was great. A narrow alley, pavement tables
and a waiter as charming and encouraging as you could wish. The Shirley
Valentine effect not needed for this party but present in lurking abundance.
A traditional mezze, and Greek cuisine, more complimentary Raki than any of
us wanted or drunk and a free loaf of bread to take back for the yacht. As
we returned to the quayside the streets were much clearer. The crowds had
gone but the hawkers were out in force and anticipation. Mainly with
candles, but some balloons and other toys. Clearly the night was not over.
Having a nightcap in a cafe, with some apology the waiter explained he was
closing and explained when asked, we must go to church. As I walked back to
StB, about 11.30 pm, almost all of the cafes were closed or closing giving
me hope for a more peaceful night.
Midnight mass passed us by whilst tucked up in our beds, but the party that
followed would resurrect the dead. The night club was pumping out music
within 50 metres of our mooring, laughing and shouting as people thronged
inside and out. The music punctuated by shrill whistles and fireworks - well
bangers really - just thrown in the street. Now I am getting older, though
younger than the rest, and I would swear that there was only one song being
played for hours, a perpetual loop of Hellenic drum and base, acid house
meets electric bouzouki. An acquired taste and last night I sated mine for
life. As we cast off our stern lines soon after dawn, and slipped from the
bay just before 7am, so too the celebrants cast off their stilettos and
slipped towards their homes. Hallelujah, for we are all risen.
Question 2 Most Geek islands have ferries. We stopped at an island with not
one but two. Which island was this?