Tilos Harbour

St Barbara's Web Diary
Peter & Sue Goldsmith
Fri 10 Apr 2009 11:57
36:25.02N 27:23.18E

12.00 11th April

Tilos was recommended by Sue G as one of those well kept secrets in the
Greek Islands, and it was. Clive and I wandered around the streets, which
were pretty deserted, walked up to a chapel on the hill for some photos of
StB in the harbour below. One or two locals passed by but it was very quiet
and still - the occasional voice carried on the air. On the harbour was a
pretty little cafe with chairs shaded from the sun, far too enticing to
decline a cool beer. From being alone in the cafe - the intrepid
threesome - gradually more and more people, cars, lorries and boxes
appeared. In the space of less than an hour, the tranquillity of the day had
been brushed aside by probably 100 people all awaiting the arrival of the
ferry, which seemed like it must only be a weekly event. Eventually a shaped
crossed the horizon and quickly arrived in port, but as is typical of public
transport, you wait days for the ferry then two come alone at once - an even
bigger ship arrived alongside. What followed was thirty minutes of frantic
activity, cars, lorries and people off then on, boxes and cases unloaded,
fond farewells and warmly embraced welcomes. Within the hour the harbour was
back to being a scene of tranquillity. Clive was in charge of dinner so I
wandered along the front. Restaurants, cafes and apartments were all being
decorated and prepared for the season. We has visited at a perfect time.
Talking to the Harbour Master, a very friendly woman who came to see us
whilst walking her dog, the village is a lovely place at this time of year.
She told us about how at the peak of the season she'd moored 74 boats in the
harbour and how at this times it was too crowded. We watched the lights come
on around the bay then went to bed with plans for the day.

Awake and up by seven, lines off and motoring out of port by half past, we
set off on the next leg heading for our next island destination, Karpathos.
After a couple of hours motoring there was enough of a good breeze to sail
and we made good progress arriving in what we hoped was the lee of the
island. The wind became stronger - fleeces and waterproof jackets were
donned, whilst we looked for the very tight entrance to a natural harbour,
at the end of which was a deserted village. We anchored and spent the late
afternoon reading, gazing and enjoying the scene. Tomorrow the plan is to
explore before setting off again.

Skipper here. Crew settling in but need sharpening up a bit. Still will
probably get there in the end.

Forecast today was for light winds so we set off early for a motor sail
westwards in the hope of getting some wind. Of course we did but from the
wrong direction. Still a pleasant day all the same with clear skies and calm
seas and by 14.30 we had tied up in a small harbour on the island of Tilos.
2 small fishing boats and one sailing yacht. The benefit of being so early
in the season. More soon.