Slow Boat to Deishaies (Guadeloupe)

Susie and Adam (both think they are skipper)
Fri 22 Apr 2011 15:42
21:04.11, 16:18.54N 61:47.99W
Left Antigua after a good few days there, it was getting very chaotic as they were preparing for the race week which is next week.  We intended to do the 300 miles straight down to Grenada where Stargazer is going to be hauled out toward the end of May, however - no wind.  After having to motor for 8 hours we decided to stop off at Deishaies for the night as this is at the northern end of Guadeloupe and we have been to the bay before, we got in just after midnight.  I don't think I have ever seen the windex read 0.3 knots of wind before out at sea, the water was glassy and progress very slow.
We've been in the islands north of Guadeloupe for the past month or so and the best thing about going back a bit further south is the greenery and the smell! - Antigua and the more northern islands that we went to are a bit lower and drier, once we were downwind of Guadeloupe we could smell warm, damp forest  (ok - that doesn't sound too endearing - but it was a nice smell!). 
Had a good nights sleep (with no anchor dragging as per last time in Deishaies), left this morning with hopes of more wind but it isn't looking too promising yet - the forecast showed better winds further south so we'll chase these.  The winds have really reduced since Jan and Feb - we used to have to battle our way everywhere then between the islands - now we are hoping for more wind (some people are never happy)
PS - Dad you mentioned that some sailor chap who used no instruments at all reckoned he could smell St Lucia at least a day before arriving from the Atlantic - as per your comment I think this is rubbish too, you can smell land from quite a long way off especially when you have been out a few days, but only if you're down wind of it not upwind.