Croatia continues to amaze and delight - Trogir is a must see!

Southern Princess
John & Irene Hunt
Sat 16 Jun 2007 14:17

Hrvatska                                                                      Trogir 43:30.83N 16:15.06E


Well the trip to Skradin was a great success. Irene served bacon, scrambled eggs and all the trimmings for breakfast as there was the odd sore head aboard. Motored out of the Krka River and headed to Tijat Island and swung around the anchor, swum and generally got better. Around mid-night we had a severe thunderstorm Force 6 (22-29 knots) wind and a startling lightning show. A nearby catamaran started to drag however a neighbouring yacht managed to wake them by shining a million candle power light on the yacht. They woke in time to avert a disaster.


I had been talking with Bob about the Twistle Rig I had organised for the Atlantic crossing. In essence it is a second genoa (headsail) the same size as the regular one. The headsail foil has 2 luff grooves in it and both sails can be set up the foil together and then furled (wound up) together. The clew of each sail is connected to a spinnaker pole and the inboard ends of the poles are joined together with the Twistle Rig, in essence a universal joint, which allows the two poles to form a yard. The poles are not attached to the mast; as the two sails can then impart a roll to the yacht while when they act as a yard it is supposed to lessen to roll. During the morning, with no wind we rigged the sails and attached the poles and later in the day tested it down wind. Very easy to handle and it furled away easily which will be great going across the Atlantic as line squalls come up from behind the yacht and gust quite regularly, which means we will be able to ease the sheets, partly furl the sails so that we are not overwhelmed with too high a speed.


Kornati Island was the next stop and a more barren place is hard to imagine. It looks like a moonscape. According to the travel books, the island was originally well forested; however successive lightning strikes and the resultant forest fires have over the centuries denuded the place of much growth at all. Dinner that night as in the Opat Restaurant in Opat Bay. We arrived and asked for the menu, “No menu” said the waiter we have fish, meat “What you want?” OK we will have a fish dish typical to the area which we thought included fish and spaghetti. May we have a wine list please? “No wine list, we got red and we got white which you want?” We tried the house white and said NO! The red wasn’t much better. Bob & Swannee were shouting dinner so Bob called for their best wine; both colours, which duly arrived was tasted and found excellent. Bob called for several more over the course of the evening. The typical fish dish arrived containing fish and potatoes, not what we imagined but excellent. Bob called for the bill! Phew 4,000 Kuna or about NZ$1,000 for 6 people and others he had shouted drinks for.


ZADAR is a commercial town and we can’t wait to leave. Bob & Swannee depart by rental car today. To get to the harbour master office I take a small ferry dinghy, one man and two oars, across from the marina and for 8 Kuna he rows me there and back. Crew change list was easy and no problems. Prior to departure, Bob takes Irene plus the others to a large supermarket so we can stock up again. The whole water front at Zadar is under a massive refurbishment project with new cruise ship terminals etc. Right out on the point they have installed a Sea Organ and as the swell rolls in and out under the wharf the organ pipes moan and groan not unlike the recordings we have all heard of whales. Very interesting and quite tuneful. Steve and Rhonda explore the town and report back that there is a good fruit & veggie market and rows of glamour shops, mostly closed because it is Sunday.


Today we had a good sail, a tight reach with 7 – 8 knots under the keel however as usual it died out and we stopped for lunch and a swim behind a small island before heading for ROGOZNIC overnight.


Motor sailed to TROGIR, a very intact walled town on an island in a river. We tied to the town dock and watched the passing parade. The evening passeggiata was fascinating with the tall, good looking, cheeky arsed girls sashaying past with the boys trying to keep up; the girls are light years in front! Had dinner at ‘The End’ bistro set mostly in the passage Matije Gupca.


Next day it was to the markets early, once again outstanding fruit and vegetables and then around lunchtime reluctantly said goodbye and headed for Split and Steve and Rhonda’s departure Thursday 14th.



           Southern Princess-town dock Trogir                                     Middle of the action



Trogir – a UNESCO World Heritage site. Steve, Rhonda & Irene grace the entrance



         Trogir – one of the many squares                    Trogir – modern and up to the minute


Terracing like this is all over the hill sides. They stretch on for miles and were originally farms and orchards. The parallel lines are ‘streets’ or ‘roads’ between paddocks


Forgot where I took this shot, maybe Italy and part of the passing scene. The author had a statement to make!