17:50.145 S  140:51.124 W

28/6/08  13:30

In between rain showers, we go ashore for some fresh provisions.  The local French bread is fantastic.  I run out of local currency.  On the way in I saw a spot I thought would be good to anchor and swim, so we motor over but when we get there it looks too exposed, so rather than motor back 7 miles into the wind we decide to head for Amanu 20 odd miles to the NNE.  Exiting the pass there is 5-6 knots of current with us and an amazing tidal rip.  Soon we are sailing at 8 ½ knots.

21:00

We arrived around 4pm but there was 25 knots of wind blowing against us through the pass and a massive tidal flow also against so it wasn’t safe to try to enter.  After discussions with someone shore via VHF we anchored very close to the atoll on the ocean side but being held off by the wind. He guided us to a good anchorage position. It would have been okay to go through at 7 this evening but by then it was dark and there are no lights here, so we will enter at 7:30 tomorrow morning when there will be slack water.

29/6/08 12:00

At 6 AM the voice of Amanu started calling to tell us slack water wouldn’t be until 9:30 or so.  A French Cat arrived around 8:30 and went through at 9:00.  We had a Dinghy recce and found that the sea on the inside of the lagoon was anything but “Mer Belle,” so it makes sense to stay where we are.  Once inside we would have to cross the lagoon with no detailed chart to hopefully find shelter on the Eastern edge.

And then we’d have to time our exit to coincide with slack water.  With this wind, the water doesn’t really ever go slack.  Being on the outside of the reef, the snorkelling is great, there are lots of fish and a few small sharks plus we can leave when we like.

We went ashore via dinghy and met Etienne, the man on the radio.  He is just a local whose house commands a view of the arriving boats and takes great pleasure in talking to visitors.  Amanu is much smaller than the village on Hao which is a metropolis by comparison.   There are only a few hundred locals.  The only work here is making copra. It’s a bit downmarket but has a delightful charm. Hao by comparison has a population of 1500 which swells to 2000 during school term as all the neighbouring islands sent their kids to school in Hao.

Almost everyone here keeps a few pigs.  There are a few chickens and lots of dogs running about.

While walking around three locals offer us fresh cocoanut.  First they cut off a bit of the top so you can drink the milk which is surprisingly cool and refreshing.  Then they slice it up with two quick strikes of the machete and give you a spoon made from the husk to eat the fresh insides.  Absolutely delicious.

When we get back to the boat, Lucy the Crepe Lady goes into action and we have Sunday Brunch.  Tough life.

In the following  pictures, the only rough water  is either in the  entrance to the lagoon or in the lagoon itself, so it’s pretty obvious why we stayed out.