St Lucia post ARC

Persevere
Pat and Bruce
Tue 24 Jan 2012 01:32

We headed home for the Holidays and then returned early January.  It has been a while since we updated the blog.  Partially Island Time and partially lack of consistent internet access.  However we are back now on the boat and still making repairs as it always seems to be.  During our time away we hired a day worker to keep an eye on the boat and have it externally cleaned and polished for our return.  Since we have no experience with the locals I selected one who seemed to have his act together and actually had business cards and references.  It turns out they did a great job even keeping the herbs watered while we were gone.  Upon return they had the boat exterior completely cleaned and polished.  Every stainless part was shining and the hull was polished.  Surprised and happy we were.  Nice guys that had made every effort to please us upon return.

 

So to get ready for departure we completed the necessary repairs, bought tons of food again and filled all the water tanks, bought more propane/butane and checked out of immigration and customs.  Out we headed into the outer harbor and planned on setting sail.  Of course the mainsail gave us problems and jammed ¾ of the way up.  So what to do now.  The new mainsail with vertical battens has been a continuos issue since Spain.  Now with just the two of us it is not easy to handle the jammed sail.  So we furled the main back in and set the genoa for a nearly downwind run to the Pitons, half way down the western coast.  Since it is a downwind run we do not need the main and we just wanted to get out and go somewhere.

 

With just he genoa we made good speed of 7-8 knots in 20 knots of wind.  Seas were a little rough but no issue for us.  The main thought was will the anchorage at the Pitons be calm.  As we approached the Pitons the boat boys started coming out to assist in mooring but we declined till we got closer.  Once close to the Pitons a water taxi guy came out and offered assistance in picking up a mooring ball.  The Pitons do not allow anchoring in an correct effort to restore the coral formations destroyed by anchor chains.  The water taxi selected a heavy duty mooring for our boat and also kept us away from the French boats!  Interesting that the French boats have pissed off the boat boys enough that they selectively avoid them.  Nice mooring about 40 meters (130 feet) from shore in 10 meters (33 feet) of water.  From here we could snorkel several nice places and still be close enough to the main town for sightseeing.

 

The northerly swell came down the western coat of St Lucia and turned the corner into the anchorage but never upset the boat.  We just rode up and over them without notice and listen to them break on the shore.  Maybe we are just used to the motion but it really was nothing.  Anyway we had this fantastic place to spend three nights and four days.  Price for the mooring is cheap, 25 EC (10 US Dollars) for the permit and 54 EC (20 US Dollars) for two night fee.  So for 50 US Dollars we spent three nights and four days.

 

We used the water taxi guy to get us into the main town and arrange an sightseeing tour.  Worked out well including a nice lunch and an on-time ride back to the boat.  He also watched the boat while we were gone and chased away a French boat that illegally tried to anchor close to us, again their distrust of the French.

 

After four days we decided to head back to Rodney bay to fix the mainsail issues and handle other of the many small repairs required.  So we are now getting things done and hoping to be able to sail south in a week.

 

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Our evening friend that seems to come around the boat each night.  A Green Heron looking for small fish.  Successful fisher as he always seems to get one every few minutes.

 

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Petit Piton.  This and the Grand Piton are old volcanic peaks jutting up from the sea.  Great to moor between them.

 

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Maybe a better view from the water.  Water temp is 26 C but there is a current during the tides that can reach about 1 to 2 knots.  Yes the hull was polished.

 

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Bottom is rocky with coral and sponges growing back.  They still allow the locals to fish since it is their livelihood.  These are sponges.

 

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Speaking of fishermen here they are.  They set a seine net along the shore and the forward four guys dive in and help the net along while they retrieve it.  They also are able to release turtle and other fish they do not need.  The reason the stand is unknown to me but everyone seems to rarely sit down.

 

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Bay off of Soufrie, the town near the Pitons.  Yes it is this nice.

 

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The islands are all on an active fault line that results in volcanoes and earthquakes.  This is the “Drive Thru Volcano”.  Yes a road leads right up to it.  Of course is stinks of H2S (Hydrogen Sulfide, rotten eggs smell).  A small stream flows into the area and provides the mist.  Not active now but may erupt in 100 years, don’t buy property here!  Below this people immerse themselves in the hot muddy waters, no pictures since they are not a sight to see.

 

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Sorry for the bad picture.  This is where in Romancing the Stone Michael Douglas took the plunge.  It is called Diamond Waterfall and it is located in the botanical gardens.  The area water developed by the French 200 years ago and made into a spa back then.  Supposedly Napoleon came here, who knows.

 

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Fitting end.  Local family fishing just west of our mooring.  Tough people who stayed out for at least 10 hours with little in the way of bounty.  The outboard motor did not work so they paddled the boat patiently around and seemed to enjoy what they were doing based on the lively conversation and laughter.  They are to be respected in their efforts and politeness to the yachts around them that can only be the faintest imagination as to the wealth they do not possess.