Brindisi and surrounds

Persevere
Pat and Bruce
Sun 13 Jun 2010 14:50

Brindisi is a large natural harbor that has been in use since the Messapic Age.  The name of the town comes from the term brendan which mean deer head referring to the shape of the harbor.  The famous Appian Way from Rome terminates in the harbor and is marked by two Roman columns at the top of the stairs.  During the Roman times the harbor was used as a military base to support the conquest to the east into Greece and Asia.

 

After the collapse of the Roman Empire the town was sacked several times by the Saracen pirates and then conquered by the Normans in 1071.  However it continued to be used for trade with the east.  Brindisi also became the place where the Pilgrims sailed for the Holy Land and was where all the Crusades left from.  In the town there are small temples (Templars) which murals depicting various travels.  In 1491 a large fort was completed at the entrance to the harbor, Castello del Mare.

 

Under Spanish rule the city declined and remained that until the second half of the 19th century.  Then it was annexed into the Reign of Italy in 1860 and the Suez Canal was also opened.  With that it became the “Valigie delle Indie”.  Mussolini had some improvements made and the “Momumento al Marinalo d’Italia” was built.  Between September 1943 and February 1944 the town served as the Capital of Italy.

 

Today it is still an important seaport.  Besides the industrial complex near the entrance it is one of the ports for the Italian Marines, basing their helicopter carrier here.  Local cruise ships dock here as well as the long haul ferries to Greece and Turkey. Just before we arrived the annual Brindisi to Korfu (Greece) regatta left.

 

The city itself today is an old town with meandering streets.  One of the main streets now is dedicated to large stores and cafes with minimal car traffic.  Along the waterfront there are cafes and a walking promenade that the Italian and tourist heavily use in the evening to get out of there hot houses and have some Gelato.  Much different than the Spanish towns where the waterfront on Friday and Sat night is a big party with lots of drinking and trash dropping. Here it is a family event and never did we have any issues even with the boat berthed right in the middle of it.

 

We also took a day trip to Ostuni, the white city, up the coast.  We did not pick the right day, Monday.  Many of the shops were closed on Mondays since there are open on the weekend, not like Switzerland where Sunday the country closes.  Surrounding Ostuni are vast groves of olive trees dating back hundreds of years.  It is impossible for me to guess the number of trees we drove past on the way.  The town of Ostuni is built on a hill, again with old origins.  We only stayed a few hours and I think we were able to see most things of interest.  Not really a destination point on its own but worth a day visit if you are in the area.

 

Weather wise summer is beginning and temps around 30 (85) degrees are now common with high humidity.  The Italian midday break where all the shops close from around 13:00 to 16:00 makes sense.  The streets are deserted then except for the café customers.  Nighttime brings some relief but also the mosquitoes emerge.  Screens are a necessity on the boat and A/C even better.

 

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Castello del Mare at the entrance to the main harbor.

 

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Southern end of Appian Way depicted by the columns.  This was the view from the stern of the boat where we were berthed.  Remember that Ostia where we began this trip was the other end of the Appian Way.

 

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Italian Marines helicopter carrier entering the harbor with tug assist.

 

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Romania’s tall ship and training vessel.  Trainees out on the spars as the ship leaves.

 

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I noticed they write in the number of trainees, maybe not everyone gets down safely?

 

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Tribute to the Italian sailors.  It is styled after the rudder used on the fishing boats.

 

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Shopping street around midday.  Notice only tourist would be walking around in the heat.

 

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Norman temple “Tempio di S.Giovanni Sepolcro”.  Inside are faint wall murals from the crusade times

 

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One of the entrances to the walled city.

 

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One of the views from Ostuni looking toward the sea and over the olive trees.

 

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Typical white Ostuni building.

 

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Old car rally that made a stop in Ostuni.  Bunch of old guys in old cars from Switzerland, Germany and Italy.  They all started and left, amazing.