Pompeii
Persevere
Pat and Bruce
Mon 26 Apr 2010 20:23
Okay now for the main event of Naples,
Pompeii. Since it can be reached many ways, taxi, bus, limo, and train we
chose the train. A simple metro (subway) ride to the main station then
transfer to Trentalia (commuter train). Only 20 station stops!
Similar to the S-9 from Zug to Zurich. Actually the ride is similar to a
Disney ride, shake, rattle and roll but it does work. The seats are
designed for short Italians so anyone over 1.5 meters will not enjoy the
trip. We stood as a true NY subway rider would. Total time
was about 35 minutes.
The train stops right at one of the entrances so it
is very convenient. Once inside the city it is larger than I
thought. Acres of houses without roofs. Pompeii is about 2/3
unearthed, the remaining amount being left for the future. Mount Vesuvius
is a bit farther away than I expected, but obviously close enough.
In the background is Vesusius
One must wonder why the city of Naples exists at
such a close proximity to the volcano. In fact it is the most highly
populated area in the world immediately next to a potentially active
volcano. Remember it was only a little more than half a century ago it
last erupted. Anyway back to the past.
Pompeii is a well laid out city with typical Roman
roads (actually it was independent from Rome but lost a short conflict and got
brought into the fold). There is the center section which was used for
main transport and raised sidewalks for pedestrians. Every so often is a
"crosswalk" of elevated stones to cross the street, obviously to get above the
muck and droppings.
Typical street with cross walks. This style
was also present in Ostia Antica streets. In fact the carts followed the
same route that they over time dug wheel ruts in the lava stone the street are
made from. Along the street are also water troughs supplies via an
aqueduct from outside the city.
Since most of the painting and artwork have been
removed from Pompeii it is interesting to see the few remaining wall murals that
were in the wealthier households.
Wall mural
I think this will be the wall in our next
home.
What seems to be a problem with Pompeii today is
what should be done with the city? Keep it exactly as it is found or
try to re-create portions of it as it was just prior to the lava
flow. It looks like they are going for a slight mix of adding
re-construction. In fact portions of the city had been re-constructed in
the past. Pompeii was in the process of repair at the time of the lava
flow. For a few years prior there were several earthquakes, premonition of
the event to come but not fully recognized. So many of the structures
were already damaged from the quakes and others were in the process of
repair.
A garden partially replanted with typical plants
that may have been in place at the time of the destruction.
Water garden partially back in action.
Talking about reconstruction this is a picture of a
typical column. (For Clark who is always interested in such things)
Now I would have thought it was a solid piece of marble, granite or other stone
that was carved out in the fluted form. Wrong. Looks like they liked
the Greek style but did not want all the expense of hauling and carving.
So they made a brick column and then plastered a covering that was formed
into the fluted Greek style. Faster, cheaper and looks great.
One of the other plaster techniques was much more
recent. When the city was being excavated one fellow developed a method to
pour plaster into the void left by the person encased by the lava.
Obviously most of the person was no longer present but the lava hardened around
their form. Many plaster casts werhave been made over the
years.
Two of the victums plaster
casts.
Touring the city takes most of the day.
During our visit the temperatures were moderate but in the summer I would think
it would be oppressive since there is little shade, no roofs left! There
is one cafeteria built discreetly in one of the buildings. It is a welcome
rest area, fairly efficient and the food is fine.
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