Riposto and Mt Etna
Slow to update recently with a change in laptops and too
busy at time. However here we go again. The trip from Isola Volcano to Risposto was under motor the
entire way. There was a little wind but not much help. In the Straits of
Messina we did get more wind but not the right direction and I did not feel
like dodging ferries and cargo ships to sail. In spite of the forecast 2-4
knots we had close to 20 knots of wind in the Straits itself. The current was
with us and against us depending on the location. As we approached Taormina
along the coast the winds and currents died and we had little wind going into
Riposto. One of the more interesting sights along the way were the
swordfish boats that are just the place to work if you want a high level
position. Apparently the swordfish “sleep” during the day and can be caught by
use of the extremely long bowsprit for the fisherman to get over the fish
before they realize what is going on. The marina in Riposto is a combination fishing harbor and
pleasure boat marina. It is located right below Mt Etna and makes a perfect
location for a visit up the mountain. The town is nothing but a quiet fishing
town, no fancy shops, tourist traps or big superstores. So provisioning is just
like a local. Visit the fish market, produce market, Enoteca (wine store), etc
to get what is needed. Shop keepers are all very friendly even if our Italian
is sparse and there English is less. They will make sure you get the best
produce and will reject your selection for a better one. They all got to know
Pat from her almost daily visits. By the way one of the best deals was the
local Mt Etna wine dispensed into 2 liter plastic bottles right from the cask.
€1.50 for 2 liters. Over the course of 10 days we had several items to deal
with. Had some small fiberglass repairs performed, repairs to the stitching in
the dodger, and replacement of the freshwater pumps which have been an issue
for a couple of weeks. While the pumps we got are much better the time it took
added a few days to our departure. Having to order pumps and have them
delivered during a holiday week is not fast. We took a day trip to Taormina, a tourist town just north
but it is built up on the hill and utilizes the old buildings in town as
shops. Great food for lunch and a nice local taxi driver took us and picked us
up on time. For our trip to Mt Etna we rented a car, I think. I did not
look at the Fiats engine size but I would guess it was about 1 liter in
capacity. Running the air conditioning took half the power so I got a chance
to drive flat out and still be passed by vans. In order to get to the top of
the mountain you drive about 2/3 the way up and park in a tourist village/tour
bus parking area but not bad looking. Then take a gondola car up most of the
way. At that point they have these huge Mercedes 4-wheel drive busses that
claw there way up to just about the summit. There a guide leads the group
along the last eruption crater. At this elevation it there was snow on the
ground and a heavy snowfall occurred a few days later. Steam is still being
emitted from this crater and at the very summit where you cannot go there is
still steam and hydrogen sulfide emissions. Fantastic views, interesting
history of eruptions and warn spots on the trail that are great places to sit
and warm you rear-end. On our way back we drove around the base of the mountain
(being passed by families in faster Fiats) going through little towns, some of
which have been impacted by lava flows. As a result of the recent flows the
soil is rich in minerals and porous so it hold a lot of water. This has
resulted in large lemon groves around the mountain in these areas.
Interestingly in areas of much older lava flows the terra is not productive and
it is easy to recognize the sparse vegetation in between. We also spent a couple days on the pebble beaches by taking
the dingy out for a quick trip. The pebbles are small and well rounded from
the surf making a comfortable and warm place to sit, almost like a spa. High position job. Mt Etna from the marina Gondola to the summit View down from the Gondola 4_Wheel drive tour busses at summit Most recent eruption crater Most recent crater and tiny people along the edge. Bus on its way down. This road was covered in snow a couple
days later. They need to re-cut it as occasional ash falls along with the
snow. This is about 10,000 feet high. Mt Etna is actually many smaller
craters aligned along a fault line. There is about 300 craters in the area but
about 10 are prominent. |