24 July 2011

The harbor at La Spezia is a mix of military, industrial, yacht marinas and the town of La Spezia and neighboring small town of Porto Venere.  The harbor was enhanced by addition of a breakwater across the large mouth which does wonders to handle the storms from the south and west.  The anchorages and marinas inside benefit greatly from it and of course the large cruise ships have a secure place to moor while the passengers get ferried to shore.

While the marina we stayed at requires a taxi or bus to get most places it does have a small market, restaurants and chandler to handle most small items.  A quick taxi ride into town and there are large supermarkets and everything else you could need.  The town however is not a tourist place, mainly a working class town supporting the various marine activities all around.

A taxi ride to the southern point however provides a real tourist town with lots of history.  Porto Venere is a postcard waterfront town strategically built at one of the small entrances into the harbor.  Most of the building occurred around the 1100’s by the Genovese.  Original temples to Greek goddesses were converted to churches, fortification walls were built and a castle to dominate the top of the hill.  This town in my opinion is more interesting and picturesque than the more famous Portofino to the north.  Not to be outdone by Portofino the small marina is jammed with motor yachts, small sailboat and many, many water taxis.  All of that does not really detract from the town and we found it quite enjoyable.  Luckily we were there when no cruise ships were present so it was not that crowded.

Built on a hillside with several terraces lined with small shops and house all tied together.  The lowest level houses were built in such as way as to make it difficult for invaders to gain access to the town just behind.

View of Porto Venere marina and waterfront.

Anchorage immediately in front of Porto Venere looking further out into the main harbor to the north and west.  While this anchorage looks calm it is anything but that.  With constant water taxis, power boats and waves entering from the small inlet almost behind when the picture is taken make it a uncomfortable place till nighttime.  We of course made things bad by taking a water taxi back to the marina.  It was cheaper and faster than a auto taxi and of course the “Captain” made huge wakes next to all the anchored boats.

Typical street as you climb up the terraces.

In case you need a good supply of olive oil this store has bottles, vats, cans and anything else related to the oil.

The castle at the top of the hill is now used for everything from weddings, to banquets and strange displays of modern art.

So he is our artsy picture of the outside coastline.

Better view of the coast with the castle at the summit, or close to it.  Everything is uphill here.