Riposto to Crotone, Italy

Persevere
Pat and Bruce
Wed 9 Jun 2010 09:58

38:04.5N 16:09.2E

 

We left Riposto on 6 June after all repairs were completed.  Fueled at the fishing boat dock which is about 10 Euro cents cheaper per liter than the marina dock, still €566.70 to fill the tanks which we last filled.  In another way it cost €1.24 per nautical mile to run the engine.  Since we had no wind worth sailing the entire time since we left Capri we motored.  The sails are becoming a more of a heavy item hanging up on the mast and collecting muddy rainwater.

 

The trip to Crotone is 136 nautical miles.  At 8 knots under motor it would take 17 hours and we did not want to be travelling that long so we planned a anchor about half way along the toe of Italy.  This time as we crossed the Straits of Messina we actually got some really good wind.  It started out a 6 knots and we decided to give it a try.  It Kept building as we got further into the southern end of the Straits until we had a fairly consistent 25-27 knots from the north (beam reach).  Moved the traveler over, reefed the main and jib and enjoyed the ride at about 8 knots.  We could have gone faster but were not racing and having the rail in the water if fine on the gusts.  After 2 hours and 45 minutes we crossed the Straits and within 10 minutes the wind dropped to 2-3 knots.  That was it.  The demarcation between the wind and no wind was a clear line in the water.  Looking back on the Straits there continued to be whitecaps and waves but not here.  Amazing.

 

We motored over to the the toe of Italy and picked a deserted sandy beach and anchored for the night off of that.  The thing about the Med is that it is a maze of land and islands that waves come from all different directions making it tough to ever be in a sheltered spot.  So it was a rolly night but better than sailing through the night looking for fishing boats and nets without lights.

 

Up early the next morning and set off for Crotone.  Another day of motoring to the next port.  No winds, and some chop but not too interesting of a trip. Then we approached the harbor.  Now the winds decided to come and they did with a fury.  25-28 knots coming into the marina.  I was hoping the hillside would dampen the blow but I think it actually added to it.  Looking at the berth with no boats on either side to lean against the harbormaster asked us to drop anchor as we backed in to give more control.  It worked well, having the bow controlled while we sterned-to was actually very easy.  Attach the stern lines and then work the bow mooring lines while the anchor steadies everything.  The bottom was very good holding and with the strong winds we buried the CQR anchor firmly.  Of course in a harbor you always worry about what is on the bottom and will the anchor foul.  But in this case it was a good idea.

 

Nice marina, but controlled by two entities, Tricoli and the Yacht Club.  Funny watching both dock workers hailing entering boats to come to their slips.  They know the place is a rest stop for most boats and they make out good by getting boats and tips for a nights stay.  Of course neither speaks a word of English so they say things louder and faster with a lot of hand motions.  None of this works but they keep doing it.  So the French, British, German, and other boats do what they need to do to get berthed while the dock workers shout and wave.

 

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Our overnight anchorage.  It is a very sandy and shallow area along this part of the coast.  We are in 4 meters of water but are about 200 meters offshore.  The beach was round pebbles with fishermen, four wheel drive jeeps and one horse using the waterfront.  For those who care it is at 38 04 5 N 16 09 2 E

 

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Crotone marina from our boat’s bow.  That is the small town behind.  Just in case you head to the very south of Italy there is no pizza at lunch, only a dinner meal.  You can walk into a pizzeria and it will be on the menu but they do not have it till dinner.  Have some fish or pasta.

 

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Center of Crotone.  The town is improving from an old fishing town.  This part of Italy had a good industrial base in the 1980’s and 90’s but nearly all those places have closed because they were not competitive.  Now they have gotten work on construction the wind turbine towers and got a regulation passed that requires the use of local suppliers.  So hopefully they will prosper but it is a bit artificial method.

 

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Crotone does have a tourist business and here is one of the beaches just starting to get used.  Even though it is getting hot the summer crowds do not arrive till July.  These pasty white burned people are Brits and Germans who want an cheaper Holiday package so they come early.  All the poles in the picture are the sunshades that have not been opened yet.