31 Oct 2010

This is a quick composite of the days in Rhodes.  We had an interesting berth since we were at the inlet to Mandraki marina.  Not really a marina but a town harbor that is a bit of a free for all.  Mandraki traditionally was the military harbor based on its natural protection, enhanced over the centuries by adding a breakwater to the inlet.  Good attempts but still it does not protect the harbor from large swells.

The eastern side is dominated by charter boats while the west along the town is full of day tripper, tour and diving boats.  There are spaces are the entrance on the north for visiting boats.  As typical with many Greek marinas the politics get in the way from needed improvements.  Heavy mooring chains have been put in place years ago but the rope mooring lines are not attached so anchors are required.  Of course the anchors then get snagged on the mooring chain, creating a good business for the local divers who release them.  Rumor has it that the divers then snags the next anchor to enhance their next day’s business!  There is electricity and water but never enough outlets to handle all the boats. 

In spite of the inconveniences of the harbor it is the best place to stay when visiting the town.  The old town is just a few minutes’ walk away as are all the stores including many upscale stores in the “new” town as the locals call it.

The old town is a typical walled city that was impacted by earthquakes, fires and sieges over the centuries.  The Italians reconstructed many of the old buildings when they controlled these parts of Greece.  Very nice restorations without being too overdone.  Inside the city walls today the main streets are more of a bazaar.  Shops upon shops, block after block.  How many trinkets, souvenirs, jewelry, pots, vases, etc can a tourist buy?  Not sure how these shops stay in business.  Tavernas are also everywhere, hawking the great food as tourist walk by.  Cruise ships come here in force and the passengers fill the streets but few have lunch in the restaurants since they have a full bounty awaiting them onboard.

This time of year is the end of the season and many shops and restaurants will close at the beginning of November.  One grocery store in the marina I think stayed open because we arrived.  They were doing their yearend cleaning and de-inventorying but figured we would buy a few items for the few days we would be around. 

Museums are interesting as is the tiny aquarium at the north end of town.  Again there we some statues but many have been looted over the centuries or moved to other larger museums.  Plenty of vases to see and of course the old buildings.  One interesting street is the street that housed the Knight of the Crusades.  All along the street are the apartments that they occupied, some being used today by the countries they represented like France and Italy.  Each house has the coat of arms for the respective knight.

Rhodes is a city of great history, strategic location and a good port of entry/exit to/from Greece, just time the weather if berthing in the harbor.

Good morning wake-up call.  This is just off the stern of the boat.  Greek independence day was celebrated with a few events, bands, speeches and of course cannon firing.  They pointed the guns at Turkey, just 20 miles away, however a Turkish gullet sailed right into the harbor during the event!

Fort protecting Mandraki harbor

Entrance to Mandraki harbor.  This is where the legendary Colossus statue was supposed to have straddled the entrance.  Reality is that it was located onshore but it make a good story.  Now deer statues protect the harbor!

Local egret hunts for food.  One of the rare sights to see around the busy harbor.

Local sponge and trinket dealer afloat.  Boat looks like it never leaves the berth.  Most sponges are actually imported from Africa.

This is the composition of most of the streets in the old town.  It looks nice but hell on the feet after a while.  Also very slippery when wet.   Women in high heels still managed to walk on this.

Typical old town street

Another old town street

Street of the Knight of Templar

One of the crests in the Knights house, I forget which one.