Leaving U. Luka we continued around the island to the town
of Milna. On the way we passed a couple of quarries on the northern
coast. Brac was know for centuries as a good place to quarry karst
limestone for building construction. The Romans used the stone to build
many of the local palaces and structures such as Diocletians’ Palace in
Split. Later on the stone was used in many buildings in the area.
After the 1990’s war the quarries were again used in the reconstruction
of damaged buildings.
One incorrect item that persists in the tourist guides and
the local people is that stone from Brac was used to build the White
House. Interesting thought but the White House was constructed from local
stone in a quarry near current day town of Foggy Bottom, about forty miles away
along the Potomac River. There may have been some Brac stone used in the
Jefferson columns in the front of the White House.
Entering the town of Milna on the west coast of Brac we set
about berthing at the town quay. Not the best place to berth as we had to
drop anchor in a bottom of questionable holding. However the anchor
grabbed hard, so hard that it popped the circuit breaker for the winch.
We got berthed and I had to dig into the bottom of the sail locker and find the
anchor circuit breaker to reset it.
Milna harbor is a natural harbor that is protected from all
directions of wind and waves except to the WNW. As luck would have it the
winds built during the afternoon and the waves entered the harbor. Similar
to Cavtat when we first arrived the waves began splashing over the quay wall
and onto the street. Then we heard a “thunk” and went up
front to see what it could have been. Turns out the anchor must have
grabbed a rock or other hard object and was not really set. These old
harbor have all sorts of stuff on the bottom and I never really like using an
anchor for fear of getting it tangled.
So now with the anchor loose, on with the engine to push us
away from the quay wall. Quick call to the berthing agent to tell them we
had enough of Milna and were leaving. Not that bad of a departure since
the winds were on the nose and Pat could get off, retrieve the electrical line
and mooring lines while I kept the boat in place with the engine and bow thruster.
So no details on Milna as we left in a few hours and never really got to see
Leaving the harbor we hit 2-2.5 meter seas, not an issue
since Persevere has handled those and larger before. Our destination was
now Marina Kastela to the north in a protected bay. Our berthing agent
confirmed a space would be available so off we went. As we crossed the
open water and approached the mainland the waves dropped considerably, less
fetch. However the winds kept up with 20 – 25 knot gusts.
Marina Kastela is a newly expanded marina that caters to the
bareboat charter industry. This being a Saturday afternoon the outflow of
weekly rental sailboats was amazing. Just getting into the marina was
like driving up a one way street the wrong way. No problem and the wind
dropped to 15 knots while we berthed with the aid of two marina staff people.
Good berth, two strong mooring lines at the bow and two on the stern made us
We wondered where the rental boats were heading as the
weather worsened. While in Milna we watched 20-30 rentals arrive and
berth in the ACI marina next to the town quay. Pretty hetic in the winds
for crews who are not used to sailing. When we left the marina was
essentially full so those boats leaving Marina Kastela who need to seek refuge
somewhere else and there are not any other marinas close. So I bet many
sat out the night at anchor in some cove getting pounded by high winds.
We recorded 28-33 knot winds in the marina during the night (Force 6-7).
Otok Brac stone quarry along the north coast