Return to Aeolian Islands
Persevere
Pat and Bruce
Fri 21 May 2010 18:06
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38:24.82N 14:57.69E
Our stay in Palermo lasted longer than we
planned. We did get a chance to have the air conditioning repaired in one
cabin, Raymarine chartplotter checked by a technician and work on a faulty
freshwater pump. High winds, 35 knots in the marina, over two and a half
days also extended the stay, why travel in high seas when there is no schedule
to meet.
So we departed with the forecast being light winds
and hazy sky. Once we were out of the marina thunder and lightning started
with a few squalls! So much for the forecast. But a few hours later
things were calm and we motored as usual since the winds were not strong enough
to make progress under sail. On the way we had to keep an eye out for the
very long dift nets the Italians still use even though they are banned.
These nets just hang in the water and have a length several miles long.
Our plan was to head for the anchorage of Porto
Levante on the east coast of Isola di Volcano. Winds were from the
northwest and that anchorage would provide adequate shelter. That is the
positive side the down side is the harbour was formed out of an old valcano
crater. As we motored toward shore we were still in 40 meters of water, a
few for meters and the water depth quickly rose to 5 meters. The other
boats already anchored had consumed all the "flat" ground to drop anchor and
have the rode touch bottom. Not being one to take the risk of dragging
anchor and having it hang in the "air" in 40 meters of water we gave a call to
the local marina just coming into service for the season. They were
extremely helpful and took the boat even though they had not yet set up mooring
lines for 18 meters boat. We berthed alongside instead with no extra
charge. Good decision after we heard stories of yachts dragging anchor and
either ending up on the rocks of having to cut the anchor and chain loose since
the weight hanging in the air exceeded the power of the windlass to recover
them.
Anyway we are berthed in an abosoluted georgeous
harbor with a active volcano on one side, a small town on another and hot
sulfury mudbath beyond that. The only downside are the high speed ferries
that come in too fast. The slower car ferries are not a problem and it was
interesting to watch them drop 80 - 100 meters of anchor chain just off the
dock.
 Volcano crater just above the marina
 Pat and Simon walking in the harbor water.
There is a thermal vent just to the right that warms the water.
 Mud bath just off harbour. The people immerse
themself in this sulfidic ooze. Its claimed to cure evrything. But
reality is plan on throwing away any clothes, jewelery that contact the
mud. It is also dangerous to get on your face and eyes (not to mention
other parts) But it is a popular activities which we missed out on
performing.
At night when the winds die down the sulfur odor
(mercaptans and hydrogen sulfide) wafe over the marina and it is not the most
pleasant smell.
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