Since some of the best ways to see Capri are from
the water we motored around the island on our way to Amalfi. The famous
Blue Grotto we chose to skip since it is really no more impressive than many
other grotto's in italy but has a strong tourist publicity support. When
we actually saw it it was packed with tour boats, looking like the Gotthard
tunnel on a Sunday night.
The west side of the island is steeper and has
fewer places to come ashore or anchor. There are several smaller grotto's
along this coast. There is one good anchorage if the winds are favorable
and it does have a nice view of Isola Faraglioni.
We headed off to Amalfi, again under motor as the
winds are not helping much in strength or direction recently. The
coastline to Amalfi is spectacular, sheer cliffs, rocky islands and small towns
build up the hills. Positano is along this stretch but it does not have a
harbor providing any protection for an overnight stay.
Amalfi harbor is better than nothing but is also
exposed to the southeast. Even waves coming in from the southwest cause a
bit of surge and rolling. We had a berth at Coppola marina which at least
allows the boat to face the waves. If a berth is selected along the main
quay the vessel is beam to the waves. We watched a Swedish sailboat
provide an impressive rolling demonstration.
The staff at the marina are very helpful and do
their best to make the berth pleasant.
Cautionary note in Capri marina! There must
have been a USA tourist that caused this after a lawsuit.
View from our bow looking back in Capri
Isola Faraglioni and Pat's left knee.
Approach to Amalfi, breakwater on
Marina Coppola with Persevere and very rare, two
other USA boats. All retirees and enjoying the Med. The smallest was
a 27 footer with a couple that has been sailing it for most of four years.
There other a 35 year old self built cutter rig sloop originally sailed in Lake
Michigan, sailed over from Florida and now working the Italian coastline.
Good times exchanging stories and advice, most of which sounded