St Lucia again
Gaviota
Wed 26 Mar 2008 13:37
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13.52N 61.05W
We spent a couple of weeks around St Lucia on this visit, but
mostly at places we've visited before, and this is being written some time
later, so I'll just describe the highlights. This position is of our latest favourite anchorage at Anse
Chastenet - well actually a mooring buoy supplied by the local marine parks
department and away from the most popular areas, so not too many boat boys
trying to help us pick one up, then charge us and try to sell us stuff as
well. It's also really good for snorkelling with a 'garden' of wonderful
corals and brightly coloured fish which caused Syd to buy his own mask and
snorkel instead of managing with his old swimming goggles (thanks
Janet). It's just off another of the beaches carefully manicured for
cruise-ship guests and in this case for those staying at the smart hotel (Jade
Mountain Resort ... Just look at the web site .. rooms up to 2000 US dollars per
night!) in the bay the other side of our mooring buoy. Moreover, behind
the manicured beach theres' a carefully developed and manicured network of
mountain biking trails, including a black run designed by an Olympic champion
biker. We test-walked ... well scambled up and slid down!!.. that in
preparation for Paul and Rachel's visit the following week.
Oh, I nearly forgot - the sail from Bequia to St Lucia
involved an early start but we made good time and arrived early afternoon at the
'between the Pitons' moorings where we'd been with Nishi after Xmas. The
sailing was good, but Annabel didn't like the heeling and also managed to helm
through a couple of waves and soak herself and the cockpit (what she
really means is she drove the boat at full tilt 7 knots ish into a vertical wall
of water (twice) I have NEVER seen the green water getting all the way down and
then going over the back end of Gaviota -before- or since!!) well it was
quite rough between St Vincent and St Lucia !
Another place we had visited in December, Marigot Bay
was very busy and we baulked at paying $EC65 for a mooring buoy so
anchored out on the edge of the bay and were disappointed to find the restaurant
with the particularly good pizzas that we'd been looking forward to was
full.
We went into Castries and anchored right up by the town to do
some shopping - no other yachts were anchored there, but it seemed OK and we
particularly wanted to get some duty free booze at the shops for cruise
customers(and others). We did the supermarket run first, back to the boat
and unpacked, then off again for fruit and veg from the market and the duty free
gin(6 bottles!). Eeek ! when we came out of the duty free shop to where the
dinghy was tied up, Gaviota wasn't where we left her !!! In fact she was
several hundred yards down the bay, with another yacht which had anchored
shortly after us and a couple of local motor boats around her ! Apparantly
she'd dragged her anchor and the other yacht hadn't been able to hold her, but
we were a bit surprised because she'd been fine for the first hour or so that
we'd left her, and we didn't think the wind had been any stronger. Luckily
the 'salvage' only cost us 2 bottles of gin and a small amount of cash, but
it was a frightening experience. We now have an extra weight for the
anchor, which Syd created from 2 bloody heavy (like 10lbs each) anodes and
the safety line from the old life raft (dumped before we set off but all the
good bits still on board!), and we now anchor particularly
carefully in soft sand and mud and watch all the others dragging in the strong
winds. tee hee .. just need a bit of physics and applied engineering on the
job..... Great fun though when you pass ...very nonchantly this contraption to
some poor unknowing person ,, who suddenly gets a 25 lb weight in their hand to
hold ....
Back to Rodney Bay where we'd arranged to meet Paul and Rachel
on 6 March, but the marina was 'full' (and noisy) due to the rebuilding work, so
we had to negotiate hard for a spot, not giving us much time to get the
generator and small sail repairs, as well as cleaning done before they
arrived. We enjoyed introducing Rachel to yachting life,
although the hangover caused by the first night at the Jump-Up at Gros Islet
probably didn't get her off to a good start. We were lucky with the weather for
a gentle sail down the St Lucian coast and Rachel coped very well with a rolly
anchorage the first couple of nights, and helmed a bit too ! At Anse Chastenet
Paul and Rachel also learnt our trick of getting the bikes ashore in the dinghy,
even a beach landing, and enjoyed the bike rides. Another night was spent
at Harmony Bay, just beyond Soufiere, where a family runs a restaurant and also
helps you onto the mooring and provides a water taxi to dinner - very civilised,
and friendly, and good food and service - a new St Lucian experience for us !
... and best of all paid for by Paul ... made it taste even better!
Another new anchorage for us was at Vieux Fort, right on the
south eastern tip of St Lucia. We had a good sail down into the wind, with
Rachel being braver than Annabel about the heeling (and she also braved the
heads whilst beating hard to windward ... a whole new meaning to peeing into the
wind ... and she wasn`t even yellow when she reappeared!), Paul doing quit a bit
of the helming, and anchored outside the (very smelly)fishing port and enjoyed
an excellent meal in a hotel (thanks Paul ..again!) up the hill at the back of
the town. For Paul and Rachel's last day we walked over to a lovely sandy
bay on the atlantic coast and watched some people kite surfing, which Syd would
love to try when we're in one place for long enough (and he has enough of his
Yorkshire money to spend). The airport is at Vieux Fort (or might be
closer to say that Vieux Fort IS the airport, but a bit fishy), so Paul and
Rachel flew back from there. We stayed another couple of nights and bought
fresh fish at the market to stock our freezer and excellent veg from street
stalls - the town had a more genuine and friendly atmosphere than many we've
visited.
Back up to Rodney Bay AGAIN on 15 March. No, it's not
our favourite place, but makes a good base for shopping and filling up with
water etc. We treated ourselves to lunch at the yacht club where Syd had
enjoyed the laser sailing after Xmas. Oh and more of the mocha frappes and
bacon and scrambled egg croissants in the cafe...
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