Civilisation
We are back in Singapore, berthed in the Marina at
Keppel Bay where we were last in November 2009. You have heard it before:
this is a first world country with most necessary and desirable facilities;
efficient and friendly services but all at London/Geneva prices. It is a
change for us and as a short term visitor it is difficult to find anything to
criticise.
We enjoyed our stay at Admiral Marina, Port Dickson spending some time with
Bill and Janet on Airstream, one of the boats planning to cross to South Africa
with us. We also enjoyed our few days in the Puri Hotel, Malacca.
Malacca is a fair-sized city with much ugly development but the few streets
clustered round the river mouth settled by the Chinese and colonised by the
Portuguese, Dutch and British have been well preserved and remain an attractive
tourist venue. There are enough interesting things to occupy two days but,
as with the rest of the world, the eager tourist is offered much that is really
not very interesting or well presented. The star of the show was the
hotel; right in the heart of things, full of character and serving an excellent
breakfast.
The town square, Malacca
Street scene – River scene Relaxing hotel courtyard In the last few weeks we have made another of those, often short-term, friendships that are so much part of the fun of cruising. In Penang we met Tim and Bec on Infinity V another Contest very similar to JJ Moon. We have been sailing in company. Tough Aussie cops with hearts of gold they have divided their working lives between Special Operations, confronting some of the very worst of Victoria’s bad guys and Police Search and Rescue, everything from hazardous diving, fetching protesters down from tall trees and rescuing climbers from treacherous mountains. They have many an astonishing tale to tell. In his spare time Tim helped organize and run a team-building “boot camp” for the England cricket team just before the last successful Ashes tour to Australia. It worked! It is easy to warm to such open minded and generous spirited Australians and their company has enriched our cruising. Being also cycling aficionados they have been keeping us on the right track with the finer points of the Tour de France. Tim and Bec – serious bikers We sailed together from Port Dickson to Singapore. All in all we were
fortunate with the weather and hazard avoidance all the way from Langkawi.
The distance is only a little over 400 nautical miles and these are not the most
hazardous waters in the world but there are plenty of possible problems
nevertheless. Offshore there is a great deal of commercial shipping
including tugs with large barges on long tow lines; inshore the waters are
shallow and infested with fishing boats, fishing buoys and nets strung across
the paths of unsuspecting yachtsmen. During this season the weather is
unpredictable with the real possibility of encountering a “sumatra,” the local
name for a squall lasting an hour or more with lashing rain and winds of 40 to
50 knots. We were spared the consequences of all these pitfalls but we did
a fair amount of dodging and weaving in our encounters with the fishing
industry. Our first night out of Admiral Marina was spent off Besar, one
of the Water Islands south-west of Malacca; the second night was at at an
attractive anchorage north of Pisang Island. The approach to Singapore,
weaving through numerous moving and anchored shipping, is a fascinating
experience but one needs to keep a pretty sharp look out. We dropped the
hook with a small sigh of relief at the Western Immigration Anchorage, just west
of The Sisters, were quickly processed by Customs and Immigration and motored
into Keppel where lines were handled efficiently, the harbour authorities dealt
with on our behalf and a welcome pack of information handed over together with
electronic gate keys. All very comfortable.
Infinity V threading her way through anchored shipping
Cleared in and leaving The Sisters
We are now quite busy. Things have arisen, as they do, and work that
can only be done at a place like Singapore has been building up. As ever
we are reminded that the business of cruising is all about keeping ourselves
fit, keeping the boat up to scratch and keeping the admin. back home up to
date. By contrast the sailing bit is usually quite simple.
The Marina at Keppel Bay and adjacent development |