We left Dominica after moving north to Portsmouth for a few days. Here
there was large yachting community and we enjoyed socialising with other
couples. We attended an outdoor traditional cooking demonstration on wood fires
and a beach barbeque. We learnt about the Caribbean net ssb radio broadcast run
by the Ocean Cruising Club, and even managed to get up early enough one morning
to listen in. We were most impressed with the way local enterprises had turned
this once risky, unsavoury anchorage into a safe and delightful place to stay.
Cruise ship Star Clipper leaving
Coach crushed when tree fell in hurricane, Roseau Botanical Gardens
Our next stop was the small group of Islands known as The Saintes, part of
Guadeloupe. Here we spent just one night, enjoying the almost quaint feel of the
islands, including a walk across the island to the lovely beach called the Plage
du Pompierre (Fireman’s beach) on Valentines day. We celebrated with an ice
Looking for the
Delightful town centre, Bourg des Saintes
The crossing to Guadeloupe was uneventful and because we had done the
customs bit in the Saintes, we were free to go where ever we wanted. However the
generator had just packed up, leaving us little option but to go to a marina for
power. We spent several days trying to sort one or two technical problems, which
left little time for sight seeing. The Marina in Bas du Four was very pleasant
and had a lively vibrant atmosphere, quite a contrast to it’s sister island
Martinique. Once again we were spoilt with delicious food from the local
Monserrat, if you look hard enough under the
Yesterday we travelled from an anchorage in northern Guadeloupe to Antigua,
hoping that spares would be readily available for the genny. On the way we
passed the island of Montserrat, and could see it’s active volcano silhouetted
against the horizon. We also saw turtles and a large pod of dolphins, seemingly
in a feeding frenzy. With winds varying from 5 to 25 knots, the journey kept us
on our toes. An engineer confirmed Pete’s diagnosis of the genny problem, but we
still await spare parts, which could take another week to arrive.
We are currently in Falmouth Harbour Marina, home of the superyacht! Our
little boat looks like a dinghy here!
Falmouth. The teeny tiny boat far right in the marina is us!!
When we arrived in St Lucia after crossing the Atlantic, we were inundated
with locals offering to sort our teak trim out, which was looking like patio
furniture that has been left outside for several years. “Nice boat, Skipper”
they said, “if you sort the teak out and remove the rust stains from the hull”.
They would then leave us a business card and a quote to sand and varnish the
teak. Having decided to tackle the job ourselves, we commenced sanding in
Cariacou many weeks ago, and are now, finally, the proud owners of gleaming teak
that you can see your reflection in.
As we tied up in Falmouth, a local strode over. “Afternoon Skipper”, he
said to Pete. “Can I give you a quote to redo your varnishing....”
Part of Nelson’s
Spring chicks in Antigua
We have explored English Harbour and Falmouth, greatly enjoying the
restored Nelson’s dockyard, where the British fleet were provisioned and
maintained, giving the British a huge advantage over Dutch and Spanish boats
that had to return to Europe for repairs in the 1700’s. Apparently the dock
workers had to work 363 days a year, and were denied access to women and washing
facilities, both of which were considered bad luck. No wonder Pete is having
such problems with the genny and the teak....