So, with the topsides cut and polished, the boot topping scraped and re-painted, the coach roof cut and polished, the new anchor chain attached, the new windlass fitted and working, new fresh water hoses fitted with no leaks, new fresh water valves fitted, a load of the wiring re-run to get rid of the snakes wedding under the floor boards, the poo tank washed and dried, the prop shaft, ‘P' bracket and prop cleaned, some of the deck leaks sealed, it was time for some R+R!

A couple of days in Florence was much over due, so with our bus and train tickets in hand we left Muskie and headed to Florence. Our hotel was right opposite the Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore, so we were right in the centre of Florence. 

First stop though, was not far from the train station in Santa Maria Novella, the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. This is reputed to be the oldest continuously operating pharmacy in the world. Its origins can be traced back to 1221, when the Dominican monks began cultivating herbs to make healing balms and ointments. The current pharmacy now specialises in (very expensive) fragrances and perfumes made from essential oils and herbs. With a birthday coming up, a special gift from Florence was all the excuse I needed, so I came away with a little bag of fragrance. 

Next stop was the Galileo museum on the bank of the river Arno. A fascinating museum housing the collection of mathematical instruments used from the Middle Ages to present day, for engineering, civil engineering, astronomy and medicine.  It even had Galileo’s right middle finger that was removed after his death. This appeared to be a common practice in those days because we met this again in other museums where fingers of saints and the clergy were on display. 

After some lunch, we purchased our two day pass that covered most of the essential sites in Florence but having brought the tickets it was stipulated that we had to visit the Cupola del Brunelleschi (the cathedrals dome) that day. This is a timed climb, and at this time of day we didn’t have a choice of a time to climb up to the top of the dome (463 steps) so we were given 1715. With about an hour to wait, we visited the Cripta Santa Reparata under the cathedral where Roman walls and church had originally been built. The cathedral had been built over the top of this original church. The frescoes and mosaics that had been hidden when the new floors and walls were laid were very well preserved.

 

It was getting dark by the time we joined the queue to start the climb up the dome, so we were a bit disappointed that we would be climbing in the dark. As it turned out, it couldn’t have been a better time. The cathedral had closed to the public when we started the climb, but the choir had started a recital for the evening, truly magnificent. We were serenaded up the steps by organ music and signing echoing around the cathedral. Just before the final climb to the top, a walk takes you round the dome inside the cathedral where you can admire the magnificent ceiling paintings created by Giorgio Vasari’s and Federico Zuccari’s  - The last Judgement (1572-79) close up. At the top we had the most beautiful view of the sunset over Florence, quite a magical sight. Everyone was quietly enjoying the sights and sounds, so nothing spoilt the atmosphere.

That evening we found a small restaurant, off the main square, for an evening meal and then went to sleep in a proper bed for the first time in 8 months. After the basic facilities in the boat yard, the shower and bathroom were certainly a luxury as well.

The next day we got up early and tried to find the owner of the hotel to get our breakfast vouchers for the patisserie downstairs. He was nowhere to be found, so we decided to visit the Battistero Di San Giovanni before the tour parties started. The octagonal shaped structure is one of the best examples of the Florence Romanesque architectural style and one of the oldest churches in the city, older than the cathedral. 

Still not able to get our breakfast vouchers, the next visit on the list was the Bell tower Campanile. This only has 414 steps to the top, so a bit of exercise before breakfast was in order. Luckily the bells did not chime while we were up there.

At 1000 we got our breakfast vouchers from the cleaner who obviously knew what to do, so we enjoyed a Cornetto (croissant), coffee, and orange juice as a reward for our morning exercise. 

Next up was the Museo dell Opera del Duomo this housed a lot of the sculptures from inside and outside the cathedral in order to preserve them; copies are put in their place. It also gave you an insight into how the cathedral was built. 

Our final visit before getting the train back to the boatyard, was to the Palazzo Medici, the palace once owned by the powerful Medici family who ruled over Tuscany for 3 centuries. 

The trip back to the boatyard was marred only by a bus strike that we didn’t know about. After about three quarters of an hour waiting for the bus that was never going to turn up, we eventually found out about the strike and had to get a rather expensive taxi back to Muskie.

We will definitely be going back to Florence next year.

With the jobs mostly done (except for the engine) it is time to head back to old Blighty and the cold English weather for the next 4 months.

New windlass and chain 

The Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Cathedral di Santa Maria Firore

Museo Galileo

view from Brunelleschi’s Dome

Palazzo Medici