39:02.723N 26:31.715E

Chris and Alison
Sun 8 Oct 2023 17:53


We checked out of Ayvalik (Türkiye) using an agent at a cost of €105 instead of €325 that we would have been charged in Dikili. The whole process only took 15 minutes and we were on our way back to Greece heading for Lesvos’ as the port of entry. The usual fear and trepidation on having to work with the Greek authorities was unfounded, they couldn’t have been more friendly and helpful in Mitilini. We moored up alongside the Customs quay, visited immigration, customs and the port police all within half an hour. We did have a bit of flutter of tummies in customs (we didn’t have to go to customs because we have an unlimited transit log, but we were instructed by immigration to go, so we did). We had to try to explain to the very pleasant lady that we had a years visa to visit Greece, we had an unlimited transit log so it didn’t matter that we were in Greece for more than 6 months. She obviously didn’t understand this technicality , so with a quick mental arithmetic we said we were not staying in Greece for more than 6 months so we didn’t need to pay VAT for our yacht!! Thankfully she accepted this and stamped our papers and directed us to the Port Police. The Port Police stamped our transit log and directed us to a stern to berth on the harbour wall inside the inner harbour. 

We made our way into the inner harbour and proceeded to drop the anchor and motor astern towards the quay. With about 6ft to go Muskrat came to a halt, no amount of engine power would allow her to reach the quay. We hadn’t ran out of chain because when I went forward there was still chain in the locker, we thought we must have gone aground but the depth sounder was still reading 4m under the keel? We radioed the Port Authority to ask if we could try the opposite wall and they agreed. This time we made it to the wall, despite a nasty cross wind, and got secured. 

Mitilini is, at first site a dusty, noisy busy town, but it grows on you despite being moored up right next to the main road that runs through. We were the only visiting yacht in the harbour, until a Polish yacht arrived the following day, the only other boats were fishing trawlers and some local yachts. 

Mitilini has plenty of archeological sites to visit in and around the old town, so the next few days were spent busy visiting the sites and museums and stocking up with provisions. 

A view from the ramparts of Mitilini Castle

The Hamam baths in Mitilini


Mitilini Castle



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