Chris and Alison
Fri 30 Jun 2023 19:34
23rd June to 30th June
We left Despotikos Bay on Antiparos in a fresh F5-6 N NE on the beam. The sea was a bit confused and lumpy but in all it was a good fast sail the 26nm to Schonousa and Livadi bay.
Schonousa is a small island to the south of Naxos, the bay has good shelter, although as in the previous bay a swell crept round the headland. The sea is crystal clear so you can choose your bit of sand and see the anchor hit the bottom. The air temperature is regularly above 30’c now and the water temperature is anything between 26-28’c so swimming is essential. Schonousa has a chora with a delightful little village and a small harbour that the charter yachts and super yachts were trying to squeeze into while we visited. The port is being rejuvenated with new taverna’s and cocktail bars, so in a few years time it looks as though it will be a very yuppy place to be.
We stocked up on essentials from the very small village stores of whjch there were three, all selling different items.
Our next island, Levitha, was an island we had been to before and got stuck in for a week while the Meltemi blew outside. This time we were hoping we would only stay the one night. The 45nm passage took us just over 9 hours with an N NW wind F1-5 at varying times throughout the passage.
Only the taverna owner, a farmer, who breeds goats, lives on the island. The menu at the taverna is goat or goat meatballs or goats cheese. We had the goat and goat meatballs that night!
The next day we made our way, 20nm, to another island we have been to twice before, Leros. We needed to do a large shop at the very large supermarket and get some things from the chandlers and hardware store. We also have got to know the taverna owner, Poppy, who would insist on giving Chris a Greek lesson every time we visited. Her home cooked food was simple, but fresh and filling and the welcome always cheerful. So it was to our deepest disappointment that when we got ashore, we found her taverna had been turned into an expensive cocktail bar and Poppy was no where to be found.
Two goats on Levitha wishing they could get into the boat to escape being the next meal for some hungry sailor!
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