Mon 29th June 09 to Tues 30th
June 09
Hurray, we're going to the Tobago Cays today. The weather has cleared
and
the forecast is looking good. We do however have mixed feelings about
how good they will actually be. We've heard a lot about the Cays from
other cruisers: some raving about them while others were totally
disappointed, with seemingly nothing in between. Well, there's only
one
way to find out... We'll make our own decision.
We had a fabulous sail with 16-18 knots of wind coming from the East
and just forward of the beam. The sun was out with very few clouds so
it looks like we maybe rain-free for a while. The rod has been out
all morning. We're very hopeful this time as last year we caught a
Yellow Tail Snapper on this route. It's rare not to catch a fish
between Canouan and Mayreau apparently. And we weren't disappointed.
A little after lunch having just sailed past Canouan (we're not
stopping here this time) the line went whizzing through the reel. It
felt like a biggie and it was a bit of a fighter. Jon slowed the boat
down as we'd been doing about 6.5knots, and I slowly reeled in. Damn,
it's a Barracuda, about 5lb we reckoned. Although Ciguatera is not so
prevalent in the Windwards it's still not wise to keep the big ones so
lucky for him, he was sent swiftly back into the sea. So out went the
rod again and within 15 minutes the reel was whizzing yet again.
Another little fighter. Please, not another Barra, or the
same one for that matter! This time it was a 5.5 lb Yellow Fin Tuna.
Fantastic. We had to use our home made gaff to get it aboard and then
quickly poured some rum down it's throat. More humane and less
gruesome than a whack on the head with a winch handle! Less messy
too. That's our fishing done for the day; this one will keep us going
for a while. We continued on, carefully making our way through the
shoals and reefs before dropping anchor in 5 metres of clear blue
water, on a sandy bottom, at the entrance to the channel between the
main islands of Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau. 26 miles logged in 5
hours arriving at 14.30. It's beautiful here and there are only 2 other boats
anchored nearby. Me thinks we are going to like the Tobago Cays. Once
the boat was tidied up, the customary arrival beer had been drunk and
the fish gutted and filleted (6 good sized ones), we hopped into the
dinghy to explore while we still have plenty of daylight.

Tobago Cays is a national park and is made up of a group of small,
deserted islands protected from the sea by Horseshoe Reef. We dinghied
through the channel and into the 'lagoon' behind the 2 main islands and
hauled our dinghy up the beach of the very small island of Baradel.
There are quite a few yachts in the lagoon, mainly catamarans, but it's
by no means busy. Wonderful. We've heard that it gets very crowded
here during the holiday season. This is definitely the time of year to
come although the weather can be a little unpredictable.
We had a fabulous time snorkelling in the shallows. The water was a
little murky here with lots of algae and no coral to speak of. We came
across two large Southern Sting Rays who seemed very keen to make our
acquaintance. It was a bit nerve racking to be honest seeing them come
out of the gloom and then just as quickly disappear! They came very
close to us at times! They won't attack unless threatened but even so,
look what happened to Steve Irwin! We soon snorkelled out of their
territory and into the centre of the lagoon. I've never seen so many
turtles in one place and they were quite unconcerned by us swimming
with them. Lots of fish too. I'll bring my underwater camera
tomorrow. So, it
was back to the boat for showers and cocktails followed by fresh Tuna
on the BBQ. We had a
quick visit from the Rangers earlier and decided to pay for just 2
nights. We may stay longer but we'll see how it goes.
It's Tuesday morning
and we are very keen to snorkel on Horseshoe Reef so off we set with
all our snorkelling gear, my underwater camera and a picnic. I'll let
the pictures do the talking.....

Snorkelling on Horseshoe Reef - the recent
storms have almost destroyed the corals but they are coming back slowly.

Parrotfish and Yellowtail Snapper

Heading
to Jamesby for lunch
The beach on Jamesby

Lunch on our own deserted island - for a while anyway

Local wildlife on Jamesby

Don't
ask!
Jon practising his golf swing - straighten that arm!

Baradel
Petit Tabac in the distance, on the other side of the reef

One of the many turtles in the
lagoon
This big guy is a Palometa

Queen Triggerfish (not very clear I'm
afraid) A Smooth
Trunkfish - loads of these around
It was the perfect day. We like the Tobago Cays very much!
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