Cassini blog #108 A day of 'moments' in Dominica

Cassini's blog
Simon and Sally, Nigel and Catherine
Thu 28 Mar 2024 20:59
A day of 'moments' in Dominica
Having had a really good trip with Martin Providence up the Indian River on Monday, we decided to ask him to take us on a day tour of the Northern part of the island on Wednesday. He picked us up from our boat at 0800 and transported us ashore to his waiting minibus. I decided to sit up front but the seat belt wouldn't work so I was relegated to the back seat! 

We set-off from Portsmouth and made our way to our first stop, the Syndicate Falls. However, this was not a simple road journey. Every so often Martin would stop the car, get out and show us some plant or tree of interest, explaining what it was, how it was used and what it was good for. He is a professional botanist and that shone through in all his explantations and descriptions of the island's flora and fauna. After a steep climb up a very narrow and rough road we eventually arrived at the car park for the falls. We proceeded on foot and yet again, every tree, flower and plant on the way was identified and explained together with any remedy for ailments it was claimed to cure. As we worked our way up to the falls, we had to cross the river two or three times, usually with the help of some handy ropes. All very Indiana Jones! 

The falls themselves were spectacular. A torrent of water cascading down to a pool and then carrying on down the river. The noise was deafening and the spray forceful as we worked our way underneath. Martin said it was refreshing - it certainly was. This was our waterfall moment! Because we had an early start we had the falls all to ourselves which was great; we met quite a lot of people heading up as we were coming down. When we arrived back at the car park, Martin provided us with a fresh banana just picked from a nearby tree; our banana moment. He then showed us how to take apart a coconut with a machete and explained everything you could use a coconut and its various parts for - did you know that the coconut water was used to sterilise machete wounds? That was our coconut moment.

Returning towards Portsmouth, Martin stopped again and came back with barbecued plantain bananas and a fried fish fritter-type snack called Akra. Both were absolutely scrumptious. 

The next part of our drive took us past the construction site of the new international airport, which due to Dominica's mountainous terrain, will be a feat of significant civil engineering. It is causing quite a stir on the island due to the disruption and not least because the whole project is bankrolled by China, Chinese machinery, Chinese labour, Chinese food; he said there was absolutely no interaction with the local community. This was our Oh! Oh! Moment!

Martin then took us to a beautiful beach on the Atlantic coast with a rum bar where we sampled the local coconut rum punch gazing over a beautiful calm Atlantic ocean. You've guessed it - our rum punch moment!

We then toured a small part of the Atlantic coast road where we had numerous ‘Kodak' moments, as Martin called them, before arriving at a beach side bar and restaurant in Calibishie for lunch. We all had a lovely meal of local produce; the farmer who provided the vegetables was even sat at the bar! That's the local produce moment for you.

In the afternoon we went to a place called Red Rock. It's is a coastal cliff area where the rock is bright red due to the high concentration of iron. A truly spectacular sight at the waters edge. A wow moment. 

This was followed by another Kodak moment at a beach in Woodford Hill where we saw a local boat built from balsa wood. A Blue Peter moment maybe?

On our way back we picked up some local rum recommended by Martin and after a busy and tiring day we retired back to our boat for a rest. It truly was a another magical day which we all thoroughly enjoyed. 

What we have proved to ourselves again, is that if you really want to get to know the island you are visiting, then hire a local guide - they are worth every penny.

Nigel

Pictures of Syndicate waterfalls - taking a shower :-), red rocks (lava from the last volcano eruption 200+ years ago). On another lovely beach with our guide Martin and one of the 365 rivers that flow to the sea from Dominica’s interior.

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