When moving from north to south in the Caribbean, it usually involves some element of working against the prevailing wind (easterly), so timing is everything. We decided we wanted to visit Saba, a small Dutch island just north of St.Kitts and Nevis, as it came highly recommended by one of our ARC+ crew (Snakehips). Tuesday 20 February gave us that opportunity, and with just over 30 miles to go we set off with a favourable wind. The journey to Saba was uneventful and we managed to sail all the way (always a bonus when you are not burning diesel).

The island is only 2 miles by 2.5 miles but they have managed to cram a lot into a small island. It is volcanic with very steep sides and in the early days everything had to be hauled up very steep steps to get it inland. Despite being told it was impossible, the residents since World War II have now built roads, a port and a small airport! All the houses have red roofs, which are pretty to see looking down the steep slopes.

We had to check into the customs at the port (Fort Bay) which is affected by the prevailing wind and so involved a challenging dinghy ride into and out of the port. However, the customs and immigration staff were cheerful and welcoming, which is not usually the case, so that did help. Once that was complete we moved round to pick up a free mooring buoy on the leeward side (west) of the island which was much more sheltered. 

The following day we decided to explore the island as we knew it had some good hiking trails. The initial trek up from the port was very steep and we were offered at least three lifts as the locals couldn't believe that anybody would willingly walk up the (23% gradient) hill! 

Having reached the quaintly named village of Bottom (which of course is at the top - who say the Dutch don't have a sense of humour?), we found that the tourist office and most of the interesting places, were in the next village along called Windward Side (you guessed it - it is on the Windward side of the island). Sadly the port did not have any useful maps when we landed, and with no phone signal for Google Maps, we relied on asking people how to get there. That had mixed results and we managed part of the way on a hiking trail but the other half was on the roads. When we reached Windward Side we had a good look round and had a very tasty lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea. This included some very good local beer called Saba Cloud Top, flavoured with a splash of rum, cinnamon, cloves and fennel. Having all reached our step and floor goals for the day, we got a taxi back!

Saba is certainly a fascinating place, and it's amazing what people can do when they set their minds to it. The residents have made the most of their little island and turned it into a very picturesque place to stop and visit, and are working hard to provide all their own power sustainably (see picture). 

We needed to return to Antigua as Catherine and I are coming home for a couple of weeks, so again we were looking for a weather window that would help us do that. One duly presented itself on Thursday 22 February, and so we set off with a north easterly wind propelling us along nicely passed St. Kitts and Nevis. All was going very well until 1800 that evening, when a squall caught up with us and we suffered a couple of hours of stronger winds, which we could easily manage, but also torrential rain which just would not go away. We were all absolutely soaked more than once, and the overnight passage became somewhat more miserable as a result. Simon and I had to find our foul weather gear (for the first time since northern Europe). Thankfully the girls kept an excellent kit storage list so it was easy to find! We arrived in Falmouth Harbour early on Friday morning, and managed to anchor without incident. Once we had cleared customs, and bought a few supplies, we all caught up on some sleep, since not much was had during the overnight passage. 

Happy Hour saw us back at our favourite Mexican restaurant in Falmouth harbour for loaded nachos and a big jug of margarita. Today, Sally went to see Suzette at the laundry with one load, I found a bar showing the Scotland v England rugby, the beer and chips were good, the game.... disappointing.

The boat, with Sally and Simon, will now be in Antigua for the next couple of weeks, as Catherine and I return home to catch up with family and friends. We are very much looking forward to our visit, long hot showers, a deep bubble bath for Catherine and even some cooler weather!

Nigel